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                                        Anchor Weight Guide

  BOAT SIZE                                                     ANCHOR WEIGHT
  Length(ft) Weight(lbs) Bruce(lbs) Danforth*(lbs) Fortress(lbs) Plow(lbs) Yachtsman(lbs)

  20-25        2,500       4.4        8-S, 5-H**       4           10         15
  26-30        5,000      11         13-S, 12-H        7           15         25
  31-35       10,000      11/16.5    22-S, 12-H       7/10         20         35-40
  36-40       15,000      16.5       22-S, 20-H       10           25         50
  41-45       20,000      22         40-S, 20-H       15           35         65
  46-50       30,000      22/44      65-S, 35-H       21           45         75
  51-60       50,000      44         85-S, 60-H       32           60        100

                                        Anchor Rode Guide

  BOAT SIZE                                        ANCHOR RODE
  Length (ft)   Weight (lbs)      Chain (dia.-inch)      Nylon (dia.-inch)    Length (ft)

  20-25            2,500               3/16                    7/16              90
  26-30            5,000               1/4                     7/16             135
  31-35           10,000               5/16                    1/2              190
  36-40           15,000               3/8                     9/16             225
  41-45           20,000               7/16                    5/8              240
  46-50           30,000               1/2                    11/16             315
  51-60           50,000               9/16                    3/4              360

  *Danforth is a registered trademark.  Similar-style anchors may differ significantly in 
  performance. **S indicates standard anchor; B indicates high-tensile anchor

This chart was found in the SAIL 1997 Sailboat Buyers Guide. Their Web Address is: www.sailbuyersguide.com

To obtain maximum holding power of your anchor, the total anchor rode should be 4 to 7 times the depth of the water you will be anchoring in.

A good compromise between all-nylon or all-chain rode is a short length of chain (6'-30') connected to the anchor, with a long length of three-strand nylon line connected to the chain. This combination satisfies nearly all requirements of a good anchor rode, except that it is not abrasion resistant over its entire length. Long scope must be used to keep the pull on the anchor shank horizontal. Nylon is preferred for its elasticity. Its stretch reduces peak loads on the anchor and on your boat. The primary function of chain is to handle the chafe from rough bottoms that would otherwise abrade the soft nylon line.

Scope is defined as the ratio of water depth (plus freeboard) to anchor line paid out. Most anchoring texts and anchor manufacturers agree that a scope of 7:1 achieves the anchor's designed holding power, and more scope is better than less. In theory, 7:1 scope is great, but at a crowded anchorage most cruisers scoff at the idea of paying out more than 3:1 or 4:1-there just isn't much space for boats to swing. Any reduction in scope, of course, must be made up for by using larger anchors and/or larger chain.

How much chain you should have in a chain-and-rope anchor rode is not fixed because of the variety of factors involved (boat displacement, draft, surface conditions, etc.). There isn't a set formula for equating the amount of line to chain in an anchor rode.
John Rousmaniere, the noted author of "The Annapolis Book of Seamanship," recommends at least six to 10 feet of chain accompany every anchor rode (except of course those for dinghies and those that are all-chain), but that's a bare minimum for anything over 25 feet LOA. You could say that twice as much line as chain would keep you safe in almost any situation.

Calculations for the optimum length of chain on a combined nylon chain rode are complex. However William van Dorn in "Oceanography and Seamanship"; Dodd, Mead (1974), presents a graph based on calculations for anchoring oceanographic vessels in storm conditions. It suggests that the optimum chain/nylon combination for anchoring vessels < 50ft. in 30 ft. of water under storm conditions is a 20% chain, 80% nylon rode with an overall scope of 6:1. Assuming that the boat's bow chock is 6 feet above the water and that the waves are 4 feet (8 feet peak to trough) this works out to a 240 foot total rode comprised of 48 feet of chain and 192 feet of nylon. Clearly these are extreme conditions. In shallower water the rode could be reduced proportionately. However, the length of chain required approximates one boat length and a good working rule for a combined rode is a boat length of chain plus whatever nylon is required to give a 6:1 scope. In shallower water, the scope should be increased, within swing limitations, to 7:1 to permit the bow to lift more easily to the choppy waves near the shore.

In summary, at a fixed anchoring depth, the longer the rode, the less chain required. The shortest rodes are achieved with all chain, the heavier the better, but the penalty is increased weight and handling difficulty, and the slightly increased possibility of catastrophic failure if the chain stretches taut.

Sizing an Anchor Chain

1 Determine the length of your boat. The boat's specification sheet and sometimes the owner's manual will have your boat length listed. However, if you're unsure of your boat length, measure the hull, from the tip of the bow to the center of the stern. Be certain to use a measuring tape that will not stretch, such as a steel tape. Also, do not include the bowsprit or any other fittings that may have been added to the hull.
2 Determine the weight of your boat. Again, the boat's specification sheet and sometimes the owner's manual will list the dry weight of the boat. If you're still unsure of the weight of your boat, you can use a weigh station at a local truck stop. Just be certain to subtract the weight of your boat trailer.
3 Use nautical charts to determine the estimated depth of waters at your anchorage site or sites.
4 Determine the diameter of chain to use. Use the following chart to determine the minimum diameter of chain to use, for your boat.

Boat Length: Boat Weight: Chain Diameter:
20 to 25 feet ----- 2,500 lbs. ----- 3/16-inch
26 to 30 feet ----- 5,000 lbs. ----- 1/4 -inch
31 to 35 feet ----- 10,000 lbs. ----- 5/16-inch
36 to 40 feet ----- 15,000 lbs. ----- 3/8-inch
41 to 45 feet ----- 20,000 lbs. ----- 7/16-inch
46 to 50 feet ----- 30,000 lbs. ----- 1/2-inch
51 to 60 feet ----- 50,000 lbs. ----- 9/16-inch
(See Reference 1)

5 Determine the length of chain to use. Your total "anchor rode" (the nylon rope and chain combined connecting the anchor to the boat) should be between four and seven times the expected anchorage depth, depending on how crowded the anchorage. More crowded anchorage sites typically mean using a shorter rode, because boats don't have as much room to swing.
To determine the chain portion of the rode, again refer to the length of your hull. Your chain should be no shorter than the length of your boat, as the chain's weight will help set the anchor. Tips & Warnings

Not only will the chain on the anchor end help set your anchor, but it also helps sink the rode following each surge, keeping the anchor at the best angle for the flutes to secure to the bottom.
For the nylon portion of the rode, use braided nylon for the best strength.
Remember: No anchor is ever guaranteed to hold. In rough seas especially, make sure to maintain an anchor watch.


Anchoring

With so much investment literally riding on your anchor, your boat's ground tackle system is no place to cut corners. Your choice of anchor depends on the size and type of your boat, and the weather and anchoring conditions you generally encounter. Boats with heavy displacements or superstructures that present a lot of wind resistance need heavier gear. The same is true of cruising yachts that brave a wide variety of conditions and may sometimes have to anchor in open waterways. Even if you're a confirmed fair weather boater, remember that the true test of your ground tackle will come in adverse conditions when you need it most. So, when talking anchors, bigger is better, and there's safety in numbers. No anchor can be all things to all bottoms, so have aboard at least two anchors of different designs to handle varying conditions. Finally, keep an anchor close at hand. There are stowage systems available for every type of anchor-brackets, bow rollers, chocks-don't let convenience outweigh common sense if it means your primary anchor has to be assembled before it can be deployed.

Which Anchor?

Fluke (Danforth-type) or Light-weight
This popular burying anchor has wide, sharp flukes. Its excellent holding power-to-weight ratio means it can be lighter than other types of anchors used for the same conditions. High-tensile strength aluminum models are lighter still. Fluke-type anchors hold very well in soft bottoms like mud and sand, but tend to slide on grass and skip on rocks. The projecting flukes can be fouled by seaweed, shells, etc., preventing anchor set and are also rather unwieldy, although some models like the Fortress can be disassembled for easy stowage. The Fortress also offers variable fluke angles that can be set for either mud or sand.

Plow
An efficient anchor made of three steel-drop forgings, the plow features a single swivel at the shank base which prevents it from breaking out when the direction of pull changes. The plow is very effective in grasses, weeds, sand, and mud, but opinion varies as to its effectiveness in heavy grasses. Although its shape is somewhat awkward and hard to stow, it can be handled easily with bow rollers. And because it has no projecting fluke, it won't foul the anchor lines. Delta anchors have a similar design, with the added benefit of single-piece construction. The Delta's more streamlined shape also affords deeper penetration and prevents rolling.

Claw
A relative newcomer featuring a proven three-claw scoop design, effective in mud and sand. It sets quickly and reliably in most conditions, including gravel. The stabilized, single-piece design rolls over rather than breaking out when the angle of pull shifts. Its one-piece construction is easy to handle, although it must usually be stowed below, or on rollers.

Ground Tackle Holding Requirements

Now that you have an idea about the type of anchors you need, check the chart to determine the holding power you require. Since modern anchors are so efficient, it's their holding power, not their weight, that proves their adequacy. In the chart below, find your boat's length or beam, whichever produces the greater load. For example, a houseboat would use the load for the next larger powerboat size. Next, match it to your intended use for the anchor (lunch hook, working, or storm anchor) to determine the minimum holding power you need. Cruising boats should consider carrying all three types of anchors.


Boat Dimensions                                            Horizontal Load (lbs.)
Length  Beam (Power) Beam (Sail ) Lunch Hook Working Anchor Storm Anchor
10’ 5’ 4’ 40 160 320
15’ 6’ 5’ 60 250 500
20’ 8’ 7’ 90 360 720
25’ 9’ 8’ 125 490 980
30' 11' 9' 175 700 1,400
35' 13' 10' 225 900 1,800
40' 14' 11' 300 1,200 2,400
50' 16' 13' 400 1,600 3,200
60' 18' 15' 500 2,000 4,000


Source: American Boat and Yacht Council (ABYC).

 

Anchor Rode
Depending on the size and type of your boat, your choices are either an all-rope anchor rode, combination rope/chain, or all chain. Rope should be nylon, either three-strand or braided. Nylon rope is elastic, making it a great shock absorber for sudden loads caused by wind and waves. Three-strand line should be medium lay, which has more twists per foot than soft lay. This is particularly important for use with a windlass, as the soft lay strands can untwist and separate, fouling the equipment. Three-strand rope can become awkward to handle, especially when hardened by salt saturation. An occasional bath in fabric softener will help to keep it supple.

Chain, used alone or in combination with rope, offers great benefits: it decreases the angle of pull on the anchor allowing it to set and hold more effectively, it's unaffected by chafe from rocks or sharp surfaces on the bottom, its weight forms a curve that absorbs shock loads in heavy weather, and, in the case of all-chain rode, requires much less scope-roughly half-for the same holding power as rope.

All chain is not created equal, however. Due to the inconsistent quality and often substandard galvanizing of many imported chains, we recommend that you avoid chain from foreign manufacturers. Proof coil is the most commonly used chain for anchor rodes. Made from low-carbon steel, it is identified by "G-3" imprinted on each link, and is adequate for most marine applications. BBB chain is slightly stronger than proof-coil, and has short links allowing a snug fit into windlass gypsies. BBB is also preferred by many cruisers using all-chain rode. Hi-test chain is made from higher carbon steel that has been surface-hardened. It has a higher strength-to-weight ratio than proof coil and is favored by the weight-conscious, as it can reduce the weight in the bow by up to 30% without sacrificing strength.

 

Suggested Minimum Working Rode Sizes*

(For winds up to 30 knots.)
L.O.A.
Beam (Sail )
Beam (Power)
Nylon Rode
Chain Rode
10'
5'
5'
125’-3/16”
3/16”
15'
7'
7'
150’-3/8”
1/4”
20'
8'
9'
150’-3/8”
1/4”
25'
9'
10'
150’-3/8”
1/4”
30'
10'
11'
200’-7/16”
5/16”
35'
12'
13'
300’-1/2”
3/8”
40'
13'
14'
400’-5/8”
7/16”
50'
14'
16'
500’-5/8”
7/16”
60'
16'
19'
500’-3/4”
1/2”

*Suggested sizes assume fair holding ground, scope of at least 5:1 to 10:1, and moderate shelter from high seas. Boats that operate generally in shallow waters, as on the East Coast of the United States, may get by with shorter rode lengths.

 

Chain Length

There are two schools of thought on figuring the proper chain length. Chapman’s suggests using one half foot of chain for each foot of boat length. But Earl Hinz, a former aeronautical engineer and inveterate Pacific Ocean sailor, in his work The Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring, says “the chain lead should weigh at least as much as the anchor whose weight it is supplementing”. From his experience, he has determined that the length of the chain lead has nothing to do with the depth of the water or the length of the boat. He suggests using the following formula to help you determine the minimum
length of chain lead you will need:


Minimum              Anchor weight in lbs.           Anchor materials factor =
length of     =     x Anchor materials factor                1 for steel and
chain lead         Unit weight of chain,                    1.6 for aluminum
                                     lbs./ft.

For example: If you have a 7-lb. Fortress aluminum anchor with a 1/2” twisted three-strand nylon rode, you would need to use at least 11.2 lbs. of 5/16” proof coil chain, which weighs 1.15 lbs. per foot. Therefore, you will need at least 9’8” of chain.

Setting the Anchor

For a firm set and a good night's sleep, follow these simple guidelines:

Choose your spot carefully, considering the shelter it offers, whether it's a well-holding bottom, and the proximity of other boats. Remember that boats of different sizes may swing to a different scope than yours, so give other boats as wide a berth as possible to avoid any wee-hours fending off.

Approach your spot slowly, and put the boat in reverse when you're over the desired location. When the boat begins to gather sternway, lower the anchor to the bottom, and gradually pay out the rode. Take a turn around the bitt, snugging up the line and causing the anchor to "bite." Then pay out the rest of rode to the appropriate scope. Finally, check the set of the anchor by one of these methods. Using a buoyed trip line, reverse slowly and note if the buoy bobs up and down in one spot (you're OK), or is being pulled backwards with you (you're not OK). Another method is to choose two objects abeam that form a range, and check your position periodically in relation to them. Any change in their bearings means you'd better try again.

Determining Scope

The amount of anchor rode paid out depends on the type of rode you're using and the weather and bottom conditions. Scope is the ratio of rode paid out to the depth of the water. The proper scope for all-rope rode in average conditions is between 7:1 or 8:1; as noted before, you can be comfortable with a mere 3:1 or 4:1 if you're using all-chain rode. The key is to keep the angle of pull as close to horizontal as possible. Heavy weather or adverse anchoring conditions demand longer scope; however, keep in mind how you'll swing in relation to your neighbors.

Retrieving the Anchor

Break out your anchor by powering up to it slowly (with your engine, not your windlass), taking in the rode as you go. Once over the anchor, move all the crew to the bow, snub the anchor, and move aft. You should be able to lift it vertically. If it resists, snub the rode around the bitt and power forward slowly, taking care not to carve up your topsides. A handy device is an anchor retrieval system, which uses a buoy attached to the rode to help break the anchor free.

Whatever system you choose, remember that your boat's ground tackle system is also its greatest safety feature. Buy the best you can, and check the gear often for signs of chafe and wear. With so much at stake, don't let the anchor and chain be your system's weak link.

How to Determine the Right Size for a Windlass
By Will Charpentier , eHow Contributor
Unless you're anchoring an aircraft carrier, you probably don't need an anchor windlass the size of a school bus. Selecting a windlass suitable for your boat can leave your head spinning as equipment salesmen talk about bollard pull, spill pipes, chain stoppers and devil's claws, and make you wonder if it isn't easier to deal with the back problems that come from hauling the anchor up by hand. You can avoid the bluster and sales pitches that go with buying boating equipment if you have some basic information and a simple formula.
Instructions

Things You'll Need

Weight of anchor
Weight of anchor chain
Weight of anchor rope
Calculator



1 Review your anchoring requirements and anchor size. While it's true that you don't need a 20,000-pound Fortress-type anchor to hold a rowboat steady in a lake, a 10-pound anchor isn't going to hold a 30-foot sloop in 10- or 20-foot seas whipped up by a gale, either. Anchor manufacturers provide sizing charts to assist in selecting the appropriate size, or you can use an old seafaring rule of thumb: one foot of chain and one pound of anchor for each foot of boat length up to 50 feet; double the weight and length for every additional 50 feet of length, for vessels up to about 500 feet in length.
2 Add together the weight of your heaviest anchor, your anchor chain and anchor rope--collectively known as your "ground tackle." If your anchor weighs 20 pounds, your chain weighs 12 pounds and your rope 28 pounds, your ground tackle weighs 60 pounds
3 Multiply the weight of your ground tackle by three. The ordinary practice of seamen suggests that your windlass provide a minimum pulling capacity of three times the weight of the ground tackle. If your ground tackle weighs in at 60 pounds, then: 60 x 3 = 180 pounds, the minimum pulling capacity of any windlass you might consider. Tips & Warnings
It's always better to have too much money than too little; likewise, a windlass with a little too much pulling capacity is always better than a windlass with too little.
Winch Selection Guide
Which Winch?

There are a number of important criteria to be considered in selecting the correct anchor winch. These include the vessel size, displacement, windage, anchor size and rode selection. Practicalities such as locker space and depth of fall for the rode also play a part in deciding which windlass is ideal for you.

Maxwell Marine's range of windlasses and capstans is extensive, with models to suit boats up to 100 metres (over 300 feet). This section aims to simplify the selection process by taking you step by step through all the criteria that needs to be considered when choosing a windlass or capstan.
Maxwell Marine's range of windlasses and capstans is extensive, with models to suit boats up to 100 metres (over 300 feet). This section aims to simplify the selection process by taking you step by step through all the criteria that needs to be considered when choosing a windlass or capstan.
WHAT SIZE WINDLASS OR CAPSTAN FOR MY BOAT?
Consider the overall length and displacement (either light or heavy) of your boat and use the chart provided to identify the most suitable windlass or capstan for your vessel.
VERTICAL OR HORIZONTAL CONFIGURATION?
The two basic types of windlasses are differentiated by the drive shaft orientation. Deck thickness and underdeck space are the two main considerations when deciding which of the two types to fit.
Vertical windlasses make up the majority of anchor winch sales. They are characterised by situating the capstan and/or gypsy (topworks) above the deck and the motor and gearbox below. Vertical windlasses provide a 1800 wrap of the anchor rode around the chainwheel giving optimal chain control, minimising slippage and jumping.
Horizontal windlasses are mounted completely above deck with gypsy and capstan located to either side. They provide a 900 wrap of the anchor rode around the chainwheel.
HOW MUCH SPACE DO I NEED IN MY CHAIN LOCKER?
Deck thickness and locker space play an important role in deciding whether to install a vertical or horizontal windlass. Estimating or measuring the depth of fall of the rode into the anchor locker may dictate which type of windlass is most suitable for your vessel. Calculating the depth of fall differs for horizontal chain only windlasses and for vertical chain or rope/chain windlasses (see diagram below).
How much space in my chain locker
RODE SELECTION
Rope and, particularly chain, selection is extremely important. Deciding on the right anchor winch for your boat depends on the size, not only of the boat, but also the ground tackle. Maxwell anchor winches and capstans are designed to take chain only, rope only or a combination of both. Automatic rope/chain systems are now commonly used on boats up to 20 metres (65 feet). Consequently, Maxwell’s HRC6, HRC8, HRC10, RC6, RC8, RC10 and the NEW RC12 automatic rope/chain systems have become increasingly popular, as they offer the added benefit of less weight in the bow with the ability to carry an increased amount of rode. Chain only systems remain popular on heavier displacement sail and motor yachts. There are two main types of anchor chain. Short link chain is most commonly used on small and medium sized boats while stud link chain is generally used on much larger vessels such as Superyachts. The latter is characterised by a stud (bar) joining the two sides of the link preventing them from deforming when overloaded. High test or calibrated short link chain should always be used. Long or regular link chain should not be used with anchor windlasses.
There are a wide variety of both metric (mm) and imperial (inches) chain sizes available and these will have bearing on your final windlass decision. It is important that the right size and right grade of chain is used to ensure a correct fit of the links to the gypsy. If the chain is not matched to the chainwheel problems may occur, such as the chain jumping off the gypsy or the chain jamming as it will not feed smoothly through the chain pipe. As chain to chainwheel compatibility is so important, Maxwell Marine supplies chainwheels to fit just about every known chain available on today’s international market. DC, AC OR HYDRAULIC? The wattage of a DC electric motor is not the important factor. Rather it is the efficiency of the whole winch, including the gearbox and motor, which counts. With the increasing popularity of powerful and compact on-board generators, AC powered winches are becoming a practical consideration for bigger boats. Hydraulic systems provide another power source well worth considering as they have the advantage of constant speed under all load conditions and can be run almost constantly while coupled with safe guards such as pressure relief valves. Modern hydraulic systems offer an integrated, low maintenance and efficient, centrally managed, power pack.
WHAT PULL CAPABILITY WILL I NEED?

The only meaningful way to rate anchor winch performance is by looking at what it will lift and at what speed. The two things to consider are (a) the maximum pull capability and (b) the working load of the winch. Maximum pull (sometimes referred to as stall load) is the maximum short term or instantaneous pull of the winch. Working load is generally rated at about one third of the maximum pull and is usually considered to be the load that the winch is pulling once the anchor is off the bottom. To determine your required maximum pull capability, complete the calculation below.
Calculate Tackle Pull
SAFETY AND SECURITY TIPS
Circuit breaker/isolators are used in the installation of any DC electric windlass to provide protection to motor and cables should the windlass be overloaded. Accessories such as chain stoppers or chain snubbers must be used for safe anchoring, the avoidance of unintentional self-launching of the anchor and for the prevention of damage to your anchor winch.
You should never anchor off your winch or use your winch to pull your boat to the anchor spot. The anchor winch is designed to lift a dead weight and should not be subjected to the strain of your boat riding at anchor.
If you think the winch you are considering may be too small, then go to the next size up. Better to have excess lifting capacity than not enough! Maxwell Marine and their agents or distributors offer free and helpful advice should you have any questions. Alternatively, check out Maxwell’s website
Anchoring
Anchors
scope

The amount of rode(chain and rope) will vary with the prevailing conditions, the type of bottom as well as the type of boat (amount of windage). A good practice is to put out at least 3 times the depth of rode in up to 15 knots of wind, 5 times over 15 knots and for a safe over night anchorage in most conditions 7 times.
setting


Check what is around you
Will you have enough swinging room if wind or current change
Bring the boat into wind and wait till it has stopped
Release the Anchor and rode till the anchor touches bottom
Put your engine in reverse (slowly) and pay out more rode until you have paid out at least 3 times the depth.
Stop paying out rode and back up your boat until the anchor is set - your boat should stop even with the engine in reverse.
Repeat the previous step until you are satisfied that you have paid out enough rode.
If at all possible use an "Anchor Snubber" once your anchor is set. This will take the load off your windlass (anchor winch), reduce the effect of sudden jerks and will let you sleep at night as it eliminates the constant noise of the chain rubbing back and forth on the bow roller.
How to:
Once your anchor is set, hook the snubber onto the chain outboard of the bow roller. Secure the other end of the nylon rope to a strong cleat on deck and release a bit more chain as in the picture.
Quick Tip:
Another good use of a snubber is in a situation where the prevailing wind turns your boat so that you are beam on (side on) to the waves or swell. This makes a very uncomfortable anchorage.
In stead of securing the snubber near the bow, attach it to a cleat closer to the stern of the boat on the side where the waves are coming from and tighten it up until the bow is facing into the waves and not into wind. Suggested Anchor, Rope and Chain Sizes




Anchors & Anchoring
Everything you need to know about anchors and anchoring. Spend any time away from the dock and you will soon need to anchor your power or sailboat. Anchoring consists of either an all chain or mixed chain and rope rode connected to an anchor; forming the anchoring ground tackle. To winch up your anchor rode, you use a windlass. Along with the anchoring equipment, Go2marine recommends a class in rode’s and anchors as well as on anchoring techniques.
Anchors
Cruising anchors The anchor you chose will depend on the type of anchoring you do. Cruising anchors are larger plow or claw anchors capable of holding boats to various bottoms. Kedging, Forfjord and Workboat anchors are used on commercial vessels. For day use, as a backup anchor or specialty anchor the fluke or grapnel anchors are used, depending on the size of boat.
Cruising anchors
Anchor Chain and Line
Anchoring rode Anchor rode connects your anchor on the bottom to your boat on the top of the water.
Anchoring rode may be all BBB, High Test or Proof Coil galvanized anchor chain. For some boats, a mix of chain with rope rode will be used for anchoring.
chain and line
Anchor Windlasses
Anchor windlass Anchors and ground tackle soon become too big for a person to haul in by hand. You will need to Choose a Windlass to help haul your anchor up. Windlasses’ may be electric, manual or hydraulic powered and can often handle both robe rode and chain for pulling up your anchor. Read more on windlasses.
Cruising anchors
Choosing Your Anchor

“How big of an anchor should I carry on my boat?” An important question that often isn’t asked is, “How many anchors should I carry?”


Consult the manufacturer of your anchor for an answer to these questions. The size, displacement, type of boat and its intended use are important considerations. Often you have one main anchor, one storm anchor (a size or two up from your boat requirement) and one lunch anchor (a size or two down).
Fluke Anchors – the Danforth is lightweight compared to its holding power, the Danforth is superb in sand and mud, and its flat configuration makes it easy to carry aboard. The Danforth doesn’t set well in hard bottoms, and sea grass can keep it from reaching the bottom. There are many similar lightweight fluke anchors on the market, including the Fortress, which is aluminum. In a strong current, the broad flukes of the Danforth and similar fluke anchors can make them sail through the water rather than sink to the bottom.

Plow Anchors – Popular cruising anchors in this class are the old cruising standard CQR ‘secure’ and the Delta. They get their name from the plow shape witch digs in well and this anchor will reset itself if a change in pull trips it. Although it may not bury in hard bottoms, this anchor is more effective in grass than other lightweight anchors. This anchor is hard to stow, except on a bow roller.

Claw Anchors – Claw and Manta anchors are originally based on the Bruce anchor; the anchor designed to keep North Sea Rigs in their place. the Bruce anchor will reset itself if tripped. However, it doesn’t do well in hard bottoms, and the shape of the flukes makes it vulnerable to fouling in heavy grass. A fixed shank anchor that is harder to stow.

Other Anchors - Specialty anchors are usually carried for unique situations. The grapnel anchor works well on rock bottoms as its narrow tines are more likely to snag small crevices while other anchors will slide over the bottom. A small grapple is often carried to rescue lost chain, to drag the bottom or to use on a small tender. The yachtsman, or kedge, anchor works well in sand and mud, and is better in hard bottoms and grass than other anchors. A small mushroom anchor makes a great dingy dive anchor. A 34 foot cruising sailboat might carry 4 anchors; 35# Plow (main), 33# Claw (backup), 50# Fisherman or 40# Fluke (storm) and a 8.8# grapnel (lunch hook, dingy, dredging). A 35 foot power boat might carry 3 anchors; 33# stainless steel Claw (main), 40# Fluke (backup, storm) and a small grapple or fluke anchor (lunch hook, dingy, dredging).

Anchoring Scope
Scope - A normal scope for a line rode is 7:1, which means the rode should be 7 times longer than the depth (including the water to deck height). A 5:1 scope is usually sufficient during the day in settled conditions with good holding ground, but you shouldn’t leave the boat unattended with such a short scope. In stormy conditions, you may need a scope of 10:1 or more. When using a chain rode in normal conditions, you can reduce scope to 3:1 or 5:1 because the chain’s weight keeps the pull on the anchor horizontal or nearly so.


Choosing Your Windlass H
ow do you choose from the wide array of windlasses on the market? Lewmar, Quick, Maxwell, Powerwinch, Vetus and Lofrans all manufacturer great windlasses. Important criteria to be considered in selecting the correct anchor windlass include the vessel size, displacement, windage, anchor size and rode selection. Practicalities such as locker space and depth of fall for the rode also play a part in deciding which windlass is ideal for you. Your windlass choice will likely be based on the following questions;

What size windlass will suit my boat?
You need to look at the maximum pull and the maximum working load of the windlass. If you have a 32-38 ft boat, typically a 600-700 lb. maximum working load windlass would be your choice. The rule of thumb is to add the weight of all your ground tackle (chain, rope and anchor) together – this number should be less than the maximum working load. Another way to figure it out is to add all the weight of the ground tackle together, multiply by three and the result should be less than the maximum pull of the windlass. If you are cruising or are anchoring often, go up one size in the windlass – you will never be sorry, the windlass will last longer and haul the chain up faster.

What is your power source for the windlass?


Electric Anchor Windlass: The most popular windlasses on the market are electric. They are easy to set up and available in many configurations, with vertical and horizontal drums as well as enclosed deck mount or below decks motor mount. You will need to be making enough power to keep up the batteries to run the windlass. Some electric windlasses also offer a power control for dropping the anchor with an electronic brake to stop it. Most electric windlasses have manual option for raising the anchor as back up for a power interruption or motor failure. There are more options available for this type of windlass than any other.


Hydraulic Anchor Windlass: Boats that have the capability to hydraulically power a windlass is rare in private ownership. Hydraulic power for the windlass has the advantage of little chance of windlass failure and is useful on large vessels with heavy ground tackle.


Manual Anchor Windlass: If you are hauling the ground tackle up and your boat has neither electricity nor hydraulic power you will need a manual windlass. Most manual windlasses have a drum on one side and gypsy on the other side of the housing body.



Choosing the windlass design

One of the factors affecting the choice of windlass design is what type of chain locker you are feeding into and how far is it from the underside of the deck to the top of the chain stack (when all the ground tackle is in).
Horizontal Windlass: The Horizontal windlass is a no-nonsense design widely used by boaters requiring optimum performance from their anchoring system. Boaters who frequently anchor, especially in deep water, require a no hassle self-tailing system. This design is available in either motor-below-deck models or enclosed motor with windlass mounted as a sealed unit, all above deck. The horizontal windlass offers the best performance and the least trouble with small or unusual locker designs. As the anchor rode enters the gypsy then makes a 90º turn and feeds directly into the anchor locker. A minimum fall of 12" (30cm) is recommended.

Vertical Windlass: Vertical windlasses provide aesthetic value and offer the added security of the anchor rode making a 180º wrap around the gypsy then falling into the chain locker. The inherent design of the vertical windlass requires at least 16" (40cm) of fall.



I want to use chain and rope rode for anchoring, what do I need to consider?
The recommended fall of 12-16” is the minimum for all chain rode to allow gravity to properly self-tail the anchor rode through a 90º vertical turn into the anchor locker. Due to the light weight of nylon line, you will need to increase the fall distance by double or you may have difficulty with untended feeding into the chain locker.
If you are using line, the preferred rode is 8-Plait Nylon, because does not coil or create a "bird’s nest" in the locker like 3-Strand will. 8-Plait flakes and falls upon itself. 8-Plait pays off of the windlass into the locker much like chain, allowing for better use of smaller locker designs. 8-Plait will not twist, loop over or knot up and is 80% less prone to becoming stiff when used in salt water than 3-Strand. What else do I have to consider?
Options: Most electric windlass manufacturers offer some options, from lighted handheld remote controls to cabin switch panels to chain counters.
Make sure the chain and rope you get (or have) will work with the gypsy on the windless you are purchasing. Most windlasses call for HT or G4 chain and will not work well with BBB chain or 3 plait nylon rode or will not work at all with PC chain. Accessories such as chain stoppers or chain snubbers are highly recommended for safe anchoring.
Windlass Chain Guide
100' of 1/4" HT G4 = 79 lbs
100' of 5/16" HT G4 = 116 lbs
100' of 3/8" HT G4 = 153 lbs
100' of 7/16" HT G4 = 216lbs
100' of 1/2" HT G4 = 271lbs
What size anchor should I have?

Anchors Always a great question to ask and watch the discussion fire up when you do. Anchor systems work in such a variable environment nobody can give you a direct size guide as such.

NOTE: The following is meant as a guide only and is a bit generic. If you are not sure ask us or someone else with more experience than yourself. Actually ask a few then average the difference as everyone has a different view than the next person. A Rough Guide -

1lb a foot or 1.5kg per metre is a starting point and not too bad a one but only a guide. From there you adjust for the varying factors.
Increase the size if –

You have a heavier boat than the average
If you have lots of windage i.e. a big solid fly bridge, a ketch and etc
You are a big wide boat
You have a big blunt bow on your boat
You are a nervous sleeper or are ‘out to lunch’ when you are asleep
You have a lightweight rode behind the anchor
You are planning extended coastal or offshore trips
You boat is an area the weather changes fast
You are planning on using older anchor designs

While it is not recommended to go much smaller, some smaller boats can drop a small amount if -


You only day fish and don’t overnight on your boat
You never leave your boat on anchor
Know what seabed type you will be over all the time i.e. get a specialised type anchor
You never boat when there is wind over 10knts and waves
You have a skinny lightweight style of boat
You use a real big rode behind it.


NOTE: The above is a bit generic as there are many differing types and styles of anchors available these days just like the boats and users hanging off them. Each is better in some bottom types than others. Some anchors will hold a lot ore than others as well so that maybe a factor in the calculation.
Manufacturers Recommendations –
While most manufacturers have some sort of sizing guides these must be used as a guide only. Some are ‘suggested’ sizes but only to a certain wind speed i.e. 30kts. In parts of the world that is fine but in others it is not. Some manufacturers guides go a bit the other way and could be a bit on the overkill side for a weekend sheltered water boater.
These charts DO NOT take into account the many and varying types of boats and bottom conditions.
One thing is for sure, there is no standard test or similar so comparing one chart to another is a not a good thing to do unless you have read the small print.
A very important thing to remember -
If you throw an anchor off the bow, what happens? You have to buy a new one and the boat drifts away.
Throw some chain and rope off the bow and what happens? You’ll stay stopped on a calm day but drag as soon as any weather conditions come up.
So an anchor by itself is quite useless. Not far behind ‘quite useless’ is using just chain and/or rope.
Hence when picking an anchor or chain or the warp, think ‘Anchoring System’. All parts work together to hold your boat. Match these parts well and they will all work as a ‘group’ to enhance your anchoring systems performance.
The biggest thing to remember –
The ‘Feel Good Factor’, do you have it?
By this we mean does your anchoring system make you happy when you are anchored.
If you answer No, the chances are you won’t sleep well and/or will always be looking over your shoulder to make sure you are where you hoped to be. Obviously that just detracts from any boating enjoyment so change something so you are.
If you answer Yes, good on you.
As strange as it may seem, the ‘feel good factor’ is something we regard as very important to any anchoring.
Think about it like this – We have a 2mm rope with a 1000kg break load so you could happily hang 100mts off the ground on it, but would you?
No, why not? Your undies filling with a smelly substance, no wonder really. While you know it’s strong enough your mind is saying “get me the hell off this now!??. Hang off a 12mm rope and your mind will be in a happier place.
The same applies to anchoring, if you’re not happy it will just niggle at you so change it so you are and your mind can rest easy.
NOTE: This article has been written for informational purposes only. In no way does it cover the entire subject in great depth or is meant as being correct for every one in every situation. In no way does this article mean to imply all comments made are ‘law’ even if some maybe. The intent of this article was to inform a little. Be aware regional differences in standards, laws and procedures will mean things maybe a little different from place to place even if the same basic principals apply.
Ground Tackle: Selecting Anchors and Rodes
by Don Casey

Boaters tend to be opinionated about anchors, but you should regard such opinions-whether praise or scorn-with a healthy dose of skepticism. The inconvenient truth is that no single anchor is the best in all conditions.
Anchor types
What anchor should you carry? That depends almost entirely on what type of bottom you most often expect to plant that anchor in. Just because an anchor is normally good in a particular bottom is not a guarantee. Sand that is too hard, mud that is too soft, weed that is too thick, or rock that is too smooth can frustrate any anchor.
Large mushroom anchors are used for moorings, and small, plastic-coated mushrooms-sometimes modified to have flukes-make convenient and foul-free day anchors for the soft ooze of river bottoms. Otherwise, however, neither grapnel nor mushroom anchors provide adequate holding power (relative to their weight) to function as a working anchor on anything but a small skiff or canoe in smooth waters.
Stowability can also influence your anchor-selection. The lightweight anchor stows flat, which (along with light weight) accounts for its overwhelming popularity for small craft. The plow and the scoop types are both awkward to stow on deck. These two are more often stowed on special bow fittings that carry the flukes outboard. Such fittings also make these anchors easy to deploy and retrieve. The yachtsman anchor is the most awkward of all to stow unless it folds or dismantles, but when it is stowed dismantled, it is also the least convenient to deploy.
Anchor size
Once you have decided on type, what size do you need? Anchor manufacturers provide convenient size recommendations based on boat length. Unfortunately, anchor loads are far more dependent on weight and windage, so use manufacturer's recommendations as a starting point only. If your boat is heavier than other boats of the same length, or if it has a higher above-the-water profile, you need a larger anchor than the chart recommends. Likewise, if your boating area could be called windy and/or your anchorages are relatively exposed, get a bigger anchor. Be aware that holding power claims are based on ideal anchoring conditions. In ooze or grass or gravel, holding power will be less-often much less. When it comes to holding, there is only one absolute-the larger the anchor of a given type, the more holding power it will deliver. An anchor one or two sizes larger than the chart recommends helps to compensate for real-world bottom conditions. No anchor ever dragged because it was too big.
Rope
You can attach the boat to the anchor with rope, chain, or a combination of the two. Rope is the overwhelming favorite, usually with a length of chain at the anchor end. Use nylon rope only. Nylon rope is strong, light, easy to handle, and elastic, the latter a most desirable characteristic in an anchor rode. Three-strand offers the dual advantages of greater elasticity and lower cost, but where the anchor line will be fed through a deck pipe for stowage, the added flexibility of braided nylon can make it a better choice.
Determining how long your anchor rode should be is as simple as multiplying the deepest water you expect to anchor in by 8. As for rope size, the rule of thumb is 1/8" of rope diameter for every 9' of boat length. So if you expect to anchor your 26' boat in 30' of water, you need 240' of 3/8" nylon rope. Unlike oversizing the anchor, oversizing the line is not recommended because that reduces its beneficial elasticity. As a practical matter, however, rope with a diameter smaller than 3/8" is difficult to grip.
In an emergency the line can be tied to the chain or the anchor using an anchor bend, but for regular use give the end of the line an eye splice around a thimble, and shackle the line to the chain.
Chain
An all-chain rode has the advantage of being impervious to abrasion, making it the choice where sharp corals are a risk. But chain is heavy to lift and heavy to carry. Pleasure boats not headed for the South Seas will find a chain lead inserted between anchor and rope rode sufficient to take most of the abrasion. If the chain is long enough, its weight also helps the anchor to set more quickly and securely. How long is long enough? I like to see at least 20' of chain between anchor and line. I have 30' of chain on my anchors.
Of the four types of chain commonly available-proof coil, BBB, high-test, and stainless steel-proof coil is the least expensive and always the default choice unless you have a specific reason to select one of the others. The shorter links of BBB make it slightly heavier but no stronger. Choose it only if you have an anchor windlass configured for BBB chain. High-test chain is half again as strong as proof coil and BBB. Because that typically allows you to use a size smaller, high-test chain reduces the weight of the ground tackle-a benefit for performance boats. Stainless steel chain is very expensive, but its corrosion resistance assures a long life.
Proof coil is available with a vinyl coating that serves to protect the deck from marring. But because chain with a vinyl coating will no longer stack into a compact pile, it is only suitable for short leads.
Chain leads should be half the diameter of the line they attach to-for example, use 1/4-inch chain with 1/2-inch line. Shackles should be a size larger than the chain, and be sure you wire the pin to keep it from coming unscrewed.
Scope


Scope is the ratio of the length of deployed anchor rode to the height of the bow chock above the seabed. The greater the scope the more horizontal the pull on the anchor, and the better it will hold. Pegging 10:1 as the maximum practical scope, the table shows the average relative holding power associated with shorter scope.

Scope Holding Power
10:1 100%
7:1 91%
6:1 85%
5:1 77%
4:1 67%
3:1 53%
2:1 35%


To determine how much rode to let out to get a 7:1 scope, you measure the depth of the water, add the boat's freeboard at the bow, and multiply that sum by 7. But knowing the needed length won't help you a bit unless you can determine when you have let out that much rode, so the very first thing to do with your new anchor line is to mark it. You can do this with a marking pen, but short yarns or tapes inserted through the strands is more durable and can be identified in the dark by feel. Five-fathom (30') increments are adequate and compatible with depth measurements in feet, fathoms, or meters.
Chafe

Abrasion is your anchor line's worst enemy. Chafe protection should be an integral component of your anchor rode. My rodes run through a length of reinforced hose that is always ready to slide into place, but you may find some other means-commercial split-hose protector, for example-more convenient. Even with chafe protection, make sure chocks are smooth and without sharp edges.
For more information about ground tackle and other boat-outfitting matters, consult Sensible Cruising: The Thoreau Approach by Don Casey and Lew Hackler.
Rope sizes, weights and breaking strengths
     

POLYPROPYLENE 3 STRAND
 

SISAL 3 STRAND
 
SIZE INCHES Weight Breaking Weight Breaking
  DIA CIRC 220m Coil Strength 220m Coil Strength
MM APPROX APPROX Kilos Tonnes Kilos Tonnes
             
4 5/32 1/2 1.5 .32 3 .15
5 3/16 5/8 2.4 .41 4 .21
6 7/32 3/4 3 .54 6 .31
7 1/4 7/8 4.25 .73 8 .33
8 5/16 1 5.5 .88 12 .48
10 13/32 1 1/4 7.9   15 .63
12 1/2 1 1/2 12.5 2.03 24 .95
14 9/16 1 3/4 19   31 1.28
16 5/8 2 24 3.50 43 1.80
18 23/32 2 1/4 30   51 2.15
20 13/16 2 1/2 40   66 2.87
22 7/8 2 3/4 47   78 3.40
24 1 3 57 7.60 93 4.06
26 1 1/32 3 1/4 67   109 4.72

*Please note this is to be used as a rough guide only.

Safe Anchoring Guide< Determine Your Holding Requirements. Be sure that your anchor can give the performance you need. A “Lunch Hook” should be able to hold your boat in a 15 knot breeze. A main, or “Working Anchor” should hold up to 30 knots of wind. A “Storm Anchor” is for winds up to 42 knots. Remember that as the wind speed doubles, the holding requirement quadruples!










Maxwell RC10-8 Vertical Rope / Chain Windlass
Chain: 5/16", Line: 9/16" to 5/8" 3-Strand or 8-Plait
Power: 12 Volts DC, 1000 Watts, Max Working Load: 1540 lbs
Includes Capstan
Item #: 012222
Manufacturer: Maxwell
Model #: RC10-8 CAPSTAN 12V
Shipping Weight: 55.00 Lbs.
List Price: $2899.00
MAP Price: $2174.25
Package Includes:
Dual direction solenoid pack
Circuit breaker / isolator panel
Up/down remote control panel
Emergency crank / clutch release handle
Features:
The RC10 fully automatic windlass series is designed to effortlessly retrieve and deploy 5/16" short link chain and 5/8" three strand or 8-plait rope.
Dual direction, power up and down operation via helm station controls or foredeck foot switches (also refer available options).
Sleek, low profile and "Max-Grip" capstan drum versions are available to suit individual user preference.
Simple two piece installation saves time and money and allows easy retrofitting without disassembly of the windlass.
Unique spacer tube design allows installation through virtually any deck thickness and the multiple mounting positions and self aligning gearbox ensure optimal location of gearbox and motor in virtually all installation situations.
Full disassembly capability of top works utilising handle provided, a screw driver and an allen key. No special tools required.
The RC10 is manufactured from marine grade chromed bronze for long term durability.
The heavy duty stainless steel pressure arm, coupled with the unique rope/chain gypsy, is designed to effectively grasp the splice between rope and chain, giving the RC10 an unparalleled level of performance.
In combination with a longer, heavy duty, large wire diameter, stainless steel pre-loaded spring, the pressure arm always exerts maximum control pressure as it pivots on a trouble free brass bearing.
The RC10 works just as effectively with all chain rodes for those who desire a low profile, elegantly styled windlass on their foredeck.
The stripper assembly design is based on the proven Freedom and Liberty models ensuring years of trouble free use.
Huge, through deck hawse pipe throat ensures easy entry of the rope/chain rode into and out of the anchor locker.
Two DC motor sizes available (1000 watt and 1200 watt) to meet the anchor rode hauling demands of every skipper. Motors are heavy duty, dual direction, isolated ground type, with durable class F insulation specifically designed for marine winches and are easily removed for routine servicing.
Cone type clutch/brake mechanism permits manual, "free fall" anchoring.
Sealed oil bath and marine grade hard anodised, alloy gearbox provides high efficiency output drive via precision worm and wormwheel.
-RC8-8 Vert




RC8-8 Vertical Rope / Chain Windlass 
Chain: 5/16",Line: 9/16" 3-Strand or 8-Plait
Volts: 12,Motor: 1000 Watts,Working Load: about 200 lbs
Finish: Stainless Steel,Drum (Capstan): Yes

Item #:  	001493
Manufacturer:  	Maxwell
Model #:  	RC8-8 CAPSTAN 12V
Shipping Weight:  	46.00 Lbs.
List Price:	$2169.50
MAP Price: 	 $1627.12
Status:    In Stock


Maxwell's all new RC series windlasses proudly follow in the highly successful footsteps of the Freedom, Liberty and HRC fully automatic rope/chain anchor winches.

Features:



    The larger RC8-8 can be used with 5/16" (8 mm) chain spliced to 9/16" (14 mm) 3-Strand or 8-Plait rope.
    

The revolutionary, and patented, new Wave Design™ chainwheel is able to accommodate a wide range of chain pitch differences within the specified chain size diameters suitable for use with the RC8 Series
    

Sleek, low profile and MAX-grip™ capstan drum versions are available to suit individual user preference

    Simple two piece installation saves time and money and allows easy retrofitting without disassembly of the windlass
    

Unique spacer tube design allows installation through virtually any deck thickness and the multiple mounting positions and self-aligning gearbox ensure optimal location of gearbox and motor in virtually all installation situations
    

Full disassembly capability of top works utilizing handle provided, a screw driver and an Allen key

    The RC8 Series is manufactured from marine grade 316 stainless steel for long term durability
    

The heavy duty stainless steel pressure arm is designed to effectively help grasp the rope/chain splice, giving the RC8 an unparalleled level of performance
    

In combination with a heavy duty, large wire diameter, stainless steel pre-loaded spring, the pressure arm always exerts maximum control pressure
    

The RC8 works just as effectively with all-chain rodes for those who desire a low profile, elegantly styled windlass on their foredeck
    

Huge through deck hawse pipe throat ensures easy entry of the rope/chain rode into and out of the anchor locker
    

Cone type clutch/brake mechanism permits manual, free fall anchoring
    

Sealed oil bath and marine grade hard anodized alloy gearbox provides high efficiency output drive via precision worm and worm wheel

Standard Equipment:

    Circuit breaker/isolator panel
    Dual direction solenoid pack
    Up/down remote control panel
    Emergency crank/clutch release handle

Specifications:

Maximum Pull	1320 lbs (272 kg)
Chain	5/16" (8 mm) Short Link
Line Size	9/16" (14 mm) 3-Strand or 8-Plait
Power Supply	12 VDC
Motor	1000 W
Chain Speed (Normal Working)	105 ft/min (32 m/min)
Line Speed (Normal Working)	92 ft/min (28 m/min)
Net Weight (Electric)	36.3 lbs (16.5 kg)









Dimensions:

Model	RC8 5/16" ( 8mm)
A	8-5/16" (210 mm)
B1	3-5/16" (83 mm)
B2 (with Capstan)	5-3/4" (146 mm)
C	6-3/16" (156 mm)
D	8-1/4" (208 mm)
E	10-3/4" (272 mm)
F	16-1/4" (410 mm)
G (Std. deck clearance)	2-1/2" (65 mm)
H	1-5/8" (40 mm)
I	2-5/8" (66 mm)
J	1-3/4" 44 mm

Important: Maxwell windlasses must be used in conjunction with a chain stopper or snubbing device to take the load off the windlass while lying at anchor. The chainstopper and alternative snubbing system should also be used to secure the anchor in the fully raised position while under way.   






Maxwell RC8-8 Vertical Rope / Chain Windlass 
Chain: 5/16", Line: 9/16" to 5/8" 3-Strand or 8-Plait
Power: 12 Volts DC, 1000 Watts, Max Working Load: 1320 lbs
Capstan is not Included
Item #:  	001492
Manufacturer:  	Maxwell
Model #:  	RC8-8 12V
Shipping Weight:  	40.00 Lbs.
List Price:	$1969.50
MAP Price: 	 $1477.12

Description 	
 
	

Maxwell's RC series windlasses proudly follow in the highly successful footsteps of the Freedom, Liberty and HRC fully automatic rope/chain anchor winches.

Features:

    The larger RC8-8 can be used with 5/16" (8 mm) chain spliced to 9/16"to 5/8" (14 mm) 3-strand or 8-Plait rope
    The revolutionary and patented new Wave Design™ chainwheel is able to accommodate a wide range of chain pitch differences within the specified chain size diameters suitable for use with the RC8 Series
    Sleek, low profile and MAX-grip™ capstan drum versions are available to suit individual user preference
    Simple two piece installation saves time and money and allows easy retrofitting without disassembly of the windlass
    Unique spacer tube design allows installation through virtually any deck thickness and the multiple mounting positions and self-aligning gearbox ensure optimal location of gearbox and motor in virtually all installation situations
    Full disassembly capability of top works utilizing handle provided, a screw driver and an Allen key
    The RC8 Series is manufactured from marine grade 316 stainless steel for long term durability
    The heavy duty stainless steel pressure arm is designed to effectively help grasp the rope/chain splice, giving the RC8 an unparalleled level of performance
    In combination with a heavy duty, large wire diameter stainless steel pre-loaded spring, the pressure arm always exerts maximum control pressure
    The RC8 works just as effectively with all-chain rodes for those who desire a low profile, elegantly styled windlass on their foredeck
    Huge through deck hawse pipe throat ensures easy entry of the rope/chain rode into and out of the anchor locker
    Cone type clutch/brake mechanism permits manual, free fall anchoring
    Sealed oil bath and marine grade hard anodized, alloy gearbox provides high efficiency output drive via precision worm and worm wheel

Standard Equipment:

    Circuit breaker/isolator panel
    Dual direction solenoid pack
    Up/down remote control panel
    Emergency crank/clutch release handle

Specifications:

Maximum Pull	
1320 lbs (272 kg)
Chain	
5/16" (8 mm) Short Link
Line Size	

9/16" to 5/8" (14 mm)
3-Strand or 8-Plait
Power Supply	
12 VDC
Motor	
1000 W
Chain Speed (Normal Working)	
105 ft/min (32 m/min)
Line Speed (Normal Working)	
92 ft/min (28 m/min)
Net Weight (Electric)	
36.3 lbs (16.5 kg)


Dimensionions:

Model	RC8 5/16" ( 8mm)
A	8-5/16" (210 mm)
B1	3-5/16" (83 mm)
B2 (with Capstan)	5-3/4" (146 mm)
C	6-3/16" (156 mm)
D	8-1/4" (208 mm)
E	10-3/4" (272 mm)
F	16-1/4" (410 mm)
G (Std. deck clearance)	2-1/2" (65 mm)
H	1-5/8" (40 mm)
I	2-5/8" (66 mm)
J	1-3/4" 44 mm


Important: Maxwell windlasses must be used in conjunction with a chain stopper or snubbing device to take the load off the windlass while lying at anchor. The chainstopper and alternative snubbing system should also be used to secure the anchor in the fully raised position while under way















http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|32295|321084&id=325302

   


Short Link / BBB 	
Categories : Anchor/Dock: Chain: Short Link / BBB
	
BBB Chain 
Chain Size: 5/16", Pail Of 92'
Working Load Limit: 1,900 lbs.
BBB Has Compact Links for Extra Flexibility
Item #:  	012026
Manufacturer:  	Acco
Model #:  	4111-40502
Shipping Weight:  	109.00 Lbs.
Our Price: 	 $299.99
Features:
    A low carbon steel, general purpose chain, with a short compact link.
    The short link makes it more flexible and ideally suited as anchor chain.
    Compatible with all major brands of windlass. (Check fit or contact windlass manufacturer before purchase.)
    Embossed "3B" on every link




 Proof Coil / G-3 	
Categories : Anchor/Dock: Chain: Proof Coil / G-3
G-3 Proof Coil Chain 

The longest continuous length we have in stock is 316  Ft
The maximum continuous length we normally order is 550  Ft
We may be able to special order custom lengths.
Please call us at 800-628-8225 Or email customer service 	
	  	
	
G-3 Proof Coil Chain 
Chain Size: 5/16", Sold Per Foot
Working Load Limit: 1,900 lbs.
A General Utility Chain Good for Most Applications

Item #:  	001136
Manufacturer:  	Acco
Model #:  	4001-40502
Shipping Weight:  	2.00 Lbs.
	  	

Our Price: 	 $3.09
Status:    In Stock







	Description 	
 
	


ACCO Chain is continuously Hot Dip Galvanized to provide the deep strong protective coating you have come to expect which has over 30% more zinc per unit volume than mechanicalcoating.


In the hot dip process the galvanized zinc coating is alloyed with the base steel creating a METALLURGICAL bond that is several orders of magnitude stronger than mechanical bonding. This zinc-steel bond is immune to further corrosion for the life of the zinc. If the chain's steel base is exposed by cuts or nicks, the base steel will not rust until the nearby zinc is consumed.

Features

    Grade 30 ISO
    Low carbon steel
    General purpose chain
    Short compact link.
    The short link is ideally suited for anchor chain.

Note: Check fit for windlass manufacturer's specifications before purchase.  



 
 
 
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|32295|321082&id=32482



 



High Test / G-4 	
Categories : Anchor/Dock: Chain: High Test / G-4
G-4 Hi-Test Chain 
	
	  	
	
G-4 Hi-Test Chain 
Chain Size: 5/16", Pail of 90'
Working Load Limit: 3,900 lbs.
Has the Highest Strength to Weight Ratio

Item #:  	012025
Manufacturer:  	Acco
Model #:  	5013-40501
Shipping Weight:  	97.00 Lbs.
	  	

Our Price: 	 $299.99
Stock Status:    Call to confirm

Description 	
 
	


Acco G-4 Hot Galvanized, Carbon SteelChain

ACCO Grade 43 High-Test Chain features both high tensile strength and resistance to wear needed by marine windlasses, anchor rodes, modern hauling and heavy duty trucking, logging, farming, and construction applications. Working load limits exceed those of ordinary low carbon or general utility chain. ACCO Grade 43 High-Test Chain is embossed with "G4" on every link.


Acco chain is Continuously Hot Dip Galvanized to provide a deep strong protective coating which has over 30% more zinc per unit volume than mechanical coatings. In the Hot Dip process the galvanized zinc coating is alloyed with the base steel creating a METALLURGICAL bond that is several orders of magnitude stronger than mechanical bonding (zinc electroplating used by most chain manufacturers). In the hot dip process this chain is specially shot-peened before galvanizing to create the longest lasting protection against corrosion. This zinc-steel bond is immune to further corrosion for the life of the zinc. If the chain's steel base is exposed by cuts or nicks the base steel will not rust until the nearby zinc is consumed.


Features:


    
ISO short link, high tensile strength carbon steel ideal for anchor (windlass) chain.
    
Working load limits exceed those of ordinary low carbon or general utility chain
    
The short link makes it more flexible and ideally suited as a windlass chain.
    
Special Hot Dip Deep Galvanized finish is recommended for all marine applications
    
Available By the Foot, Full drums, Half drums and Pails
    
Discounts on full and half drums of chain 


Note: Most brands of windlasses require either BBB or G4 High Test chain, because the links are more uniform in size and more flexible than proof coil. Each windlass is sized for a specific chain. Be sure to check your windlass instructions or contact the windlass manufacturer for correct sizing.
 


Additional Handling Note:

additional handling fee of $8.00, imposed by the carrier, will be included in your shipping charges.
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|32295|321083&id=325289

  






Stainless Steel High Test Chain 
Chain Size: 5/16", Sold Per Foot
Working Load Limit: 2,850 lbs.
Added Corrosion Resistance

Item #:  	012029
Manufacturer:  	Suncor
Model #:  	S0604-0008
Shipping Weight:  	1.00 Lbs.
List Price:	$25.08
	  	

Our Price: 	 $21.99
Status:    In Stock
Quantity 		
	
 
Please note:
Items Cut to Custom Lengths Are Not Returnable.
	Description 	
 
	

Versatility and power come together in this highly polished family of chain.

Features:

    Added corrosion resistance
    The esthetic appeal of polished chain.
    Desirable to boating enthusiasts who want a refined look to their anchor lead chain.
    Excellent properties make stainless a great choice for marine applications
    Stainless Steel High Test Chain Type 316
    Designed to fit a windlass 

Note:not to be used for over head lifting 

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|10391|32295|321083&id=325342