The Slingshot Community Forum
General Slingshot Talk
Rufus Hussey band attaching method
Discussion in 'General Slingshot Talk' started by Rubberpower, Apr 16, 2015.
Someone started a thread on this topic but it never did come to a firm conclusion.
My question is does anyone use this method today and what are your reasons for using it?
Here is a video showing exactly how he did the band attachments.
I have used it.
I like it on natural forks because it puts the ties right between my fingers.
It work's good with tubes but I never could get theraband to last with it.
What type of bands did you get to last?
I used double 1745 with a tube protector at the tie. Short piece of daisy band.
i was going to say what August just did Nico uses this method he is one of the very few i have ever heard that still use it
One of the methods that was used for years and still used .....
very very simple and fast.
There are a few things you can do to make the flat last a bit longer, and it is very easy to do,
it has been shown before on a this and other forums a while ago,
a Google search will bring it up I'm sure,
it is just a loop under the main flat to stop abrasion on the fork.
wll
Hi guys,
Yes I use this attachment, its what my father and uncle taught me when I was like 7 years old.
Only mine is with the band in reverse of what Rufus does mine is down side down.
Here's a tube one black tubes antler.jpg
One with flats (107s) Resortera copa.jpg
This method can be used with tubes, flats, solids round and square and I have a few such slingshots.
I like the way I do it because it will always shoot over the forks and its very rare to get a fork hit with the style.
With what Rufus does you are forced/disciplined into the flipping style because the bands accelerate/travel lower on the prongs.
The secret is using a proper insulator to protect the band from being cut/eaten by the ties.
Its very secure once you put it into practice. But yet if done right it will also work with thera-bands and I have done it before.
I have used it. I like it on natural forks because it puts the ties right between my fingers.
It work's good with tubes but I never could get theraband to last with it.
Hey My friend,,,use 1/8" thick Natural Gum Rubber 5/8" wide say 10 1/2" long...
that will do the trick for ya..I think you can get some gum rubber from simple-shot i~AKAOldmiser[/QUOTE]
thanks om. I'm sure that would work better than my theraband sets.
I tried everything I could think of and still got half the band life that i was getting Ott.
I use the method Nico uses (which I learned from his posts when I was starting out) for 3060 and 4070 tubes.
It works well for me, using a cloth insulator.
I can't think of a better way to but single tubes on a narrow natural fork.
This is a Great Video.
I did not notice that Rufus used a Jig Tie. Hmmmm.
Thank's RP
Maybe I'm a little slow (it has been suggested more than once),
but I don't quit understand what Rufus is doing in the video.
Is he starting with the rubber pointing down toward the handle,
making a few passes with the tying rubber then pointing the bands up to shoot OTT?
That is exactly how I tie my pouches on
The great thing about Rufus' method ( and others like it )
is that it takes away almost all band slap.
Even with very light ammo.
I tried for weeks to get used to a OTT set up.
I always got very bad band slap no matter what ammo I used.
Once I discovered a method similar to Rufus', I never looked back
Its my favorite attachment for a natural fork. has anybody ever done test on band life with this attachment?
Because i would really like to know how to get good band life with this attachment and theraband.
Could someone post a video demonstrating this method of attaching the bands?
I understand the bands are folded, but I am unsure what is meant with a band protector. As previously mentioned,
I am a bit slow on the uptake sometimes.
The protector is wrapped around the band/tube before the wrap and tuck rubber is put on.
In my photo above yoiu can see it is a strip of black cloth then rubber bands.
It prevents abrasion of rubber on rubber.
I've never tried it with flats.
What is the best tube size for hunting with 3/8 steel?
#2 What is the best tube size for hunting: post #2 poekoelan
Before I got the best tube, I
'd look into changing ammo for hunting.
Unless you're going after small birds. 3/8 steel will probably be fine for that.
But if you're talking rabbits or squirrels, I'd go for 1/2" steel or .44 lead.
Doubled or looped dankung 1842 or 1745 will work well for 1/2 steel or .44 lead for taking rabbits or squirrels.
Single strands of 1842 or 1745 will work well with 3/8 steel for targets or plinking.
What kind of game will you be hunting?
Pigeons collard doves squirrels. And rabbits thanks for the info
Tom Stevens, on 30 Sept 2015 - 07:57 AM, said:
What is the best tube size for hunting with 3/8 steel?
I can't tell you about 3/8" for hunting game the size Rabbit, Squirrel or Pigeon ....
but I can tell you about the 3/8" speed for smaller Starling size pest !
With 1842 looped tubes, a 7" static length, a draw of 36"-37" and an active release ... 285fps is what I get ...
if the weather starts to get in the mid 80's, tack another 10ish fps to that !
It sends the 3/8" steel like a dart ... no, more like a bullet !
My shots are very far 25-40yds as my hunting area is in the high desert in California ....
I shoot 3/8" steel and 5/8" marbles most of the time because of the small pest I shoot.
In reality if I had anything of size I would use much bigger ammo (130-314gr)
as I'm a very firm believer in blunt force trauma for sling shots.
For the heaver ammo I would use looped 1745 or my 3/16"od looped tubes ..
. but looped 1842 sends out 130gr 1/2" steel very, very quickly.
Just my thoughts on 3/8" steel ----- I'll be out this weekend using it again along with 5/8" marbles :- )
wll
========================
1st Place - Slingshot of the Month 5/5 shots at 10M - Qualifier
What is the best tube size for hunting with 3/8 steel?
Before I got the best tube, I'd look into changing ammo for hunting.
Unless you're going after small birds.
3/8 steel will probably be fine for that.
But if you're talking rabbits or squirrels,
I'd go for 1/2" steel or .44 lead.
Doubled or looped dankung 1842 or 1745 will work well for 1/2 steel or .44 lead
for taking rabbits or squirrels.
Single strands of 1842 or 1745 will work well with 3/8 steel for targets or plinking.
What kind of game will you be hunting?
Pigeons collard doves squirrels. And rabbits thanks for the info
=======
Material: natural latex Diameter:
====
7.8mm ; Length:10m/32.8ft 1842
Diameter:7.8mm ; Length:10m/32.8ft $23.98
====
Pulling power ranking:1632<2040<1842<2050<3060<2055
Color: Red,Green,Yellow,3 colors for your choice.
Great Accessory for Slingshot Catapult
==========
I can't tell you about 3/8" for hunting game the size Rabbit, Squirrel or Pigeon ....
but I can tell you about the 3/8" speed for smaller Starling size pest !
With 1842 looped tubes, a 7" static length, a draw of 36"-37" and an active release
... 285fps is what I get
... if the weather starts to get in the mid 80's, tack another 10ish fps to that !
It sends the 3/8" steel like a dart ... no, more like a bullet !
My shots are very far 25-40yds as my hunting area is in the high desert in California ....
I shoot 3/8" steel and 5/8" marbles most of the time because of the small pest I shoot.
In reality if I had anything of size I would use much bigger ammo (130-314gr)
as I'm a very firm believer in blunt force trauma for sling shots.
For the heaver ammo I would use looped 1745 or my 3/16"od looped tubes ...
but looped 1842 sends out 130gr 1/2" steel very, very quickly.
Just my thoughts on 3/8" steel ----- I'll be out this weekend using it again along with 5/8" marbles :- )
wll
========================
Hi whats peoples opinions on flat bands versus tube.
Perhaps I should wait until I use more tubing before commenting.
I used Marksman’s tubing with their slingshot and liked neither, their slingshot nor their bands.
I found the flats more to my liking and they got me serious about slingshots.
I recently started using 1842 and have 1745 on the way.
I find neither the flats nor the 1842 tubing over shadows the other, each have their own characteristics.
The flats seem more versatile regarding the different types and dimensions that I can cut them.
The release is smoother.
So far I’ve gotten more power with a number of flat bands.
The 1842 is easier to make into a band and requires fewer tools.
It has adequate power for me purposes.
The slingshot that I use the 1842 is small and carries better in my pocket.
But I find it harder to hold when the power close up
as it does not distribute the pressure evenly in my hand as my PSs do.
That in itself is limiting the power.
I have another slingshot on order that I hope to be able to use with a stronger pull
but I have little hope in even matching the power that I can get with my PSs and flat band.
The band life is probably better with the 1842 although I shorten it with the heavier/shorter pull length.
I can get about the same life, or close to it, out of TBG but the power is less than the 1842 at that point.
At the moment I do not feel like rejecting either in the favour of the other.
personally my experiences are a bit limited,
i have Henries tubes and flat bands i have some chinese tubes,
losts of latex and thera, the tubes seem stiff strong enough but a slower release,
which i am guessing also means a slower overall speed,
all the flats i have tried are more responsive faster, and to me easier to aim. IMHO
As usual, the best answer is, it depends.
What do you want? Speed, power, easy pull, long life, cheap, etc?
As a general rule, big tubes last longer, flats are faster, but...
There's always a but, isn't there?
I'm beginning to believe the reason big tubes last longer than flats, aside from imperfect cutting of flats,
is that flats are usually easier to pull and tend to get stretched closer to the limit.
For example, #107 rubber bands will easily go over 1000 rounds is stretched only about 4 times relaxed length.
Chinese tubes, noted for longevity, are breaking at 200~300 shots for me,
but I'm stretching them to near maximum.
You'll just have to experiment and see what works for you.
Peter Recuas likes this
Posted 21 January 2012 - 04:49 PM
I agree with Henry...it depends what features you desire.
If you are simply short range target shooting any scrap of rubber can do.
To achieve near maximum performance out of latex needs some finessing.
Tubes can be set up fast I can assure you but you need to taper them.
For me nothing is more versatile than the 1745 tube.
Set it up with single strand tied(lightly) to a loop to give a virtual 2:1 taper,
use as long a draw as possible and stretch to your maximum.
If you of average adult size/strength you will see 300fps
and up for 3.5gram 3/8 steel and 250fps and up for 7gram lead.
I usually see 300 shots out of this set up.I get only half that or less with flats.
1845's are a good choice if you want a lighter draw.
You should see close to 200 shots with slighty less speeds.
But remember if you can only manage a light draw these may actually be faster.
Match draw weight/ammo with tapered tubes and you won't be disappointed.
=================================
When this topic is discussed, it is the usual opinion that tubes outlast flats.
I have found however that flats mounted in a specific way (like Saunders for instance)
will last as long as tubes if not exposed to UV too much.
One of the reasons that most tubes last longer than flats is they are usually shooting slower.
When I juice up latex tube's to shoot as fast as flats they lose some of there life also.
The reason that I like flats is they have less recoil and speed per pull weight.
The small tubes (I refuse to call them Chinese tubes **) do reduce some of the problems that large tubes have. – Tex
** Some of us were shooting small tubes a long time ago and marksman had a slingshot with small tubes in the early 90's.
It was there cheap version, but it shot faster than there more expensive versions using large tubes.
i like tubes better because i shoot a pfs so they are hard to beat! though ott and ttf (non pfs) are better with flat-bands
hope it helps!
=====
flatbands are faster but tubes last longer ;)
============
There's no such thing as a stupid question.
Most of us get our knowledge by asking someone something or other.
I have always used 6mm square rubber on all my builds and I've been doing it 40yrs.
I recently joined this forum and wanted to know exactly the same thing.
I read a few old posts, watched a few video's and after doing so,
I've just ordered my first ever tube bands from ebay.
I don't know if I'll try the flat bands though because I
just don't think they look as good as the tubes or my normal square bands.
But, that's just my opinion.
Loads of people on here use flat bands and most of them shoot better with them than I can only dream about.
They are relatively cheap to buy so why not do as I have and just buy some and make your own mind up.
Enjoy your time here, there's a whole mine of information for us to discover
========
Well, there are many different opinions about that subject..
Tubes last much longer than flat bands, but flat bands shoot faster than tubes..
There are people who really love flat bands, and people who really love tubes..
I, personally, have bought like 4 meters of 17*45 dankung tubing,
and im very pleased with it!, its great and doesnt cost so much..
Therefore, i have never bought any flatbands,
since i dont have that much money spending on slingshots right now ( im 17.5 years old, so yah ^_^..)
In conclusion: If u have the money to spend, and u really want to enjoy this sport, try buying both
- flat bands and tubes, and u will see wat fits u the best!. :D
P.S- About pulling the tubes: it all depends in how many strands of tubes are u going to use,
for instance - 2 strands slingshot means 1 strand each side, its easy to pull and ment for target shooting mainly.
4 strand slingshot means 2 strands each side, its harder to pull,
but if u use double TheraBand Gold- u might not have a problem pulling 4 strands
(i, for example, use 4 strands, and again, im 17.5 years old).
4 strands, if im not wrong, can be used for target shooting, and also for hunting (not 100% sure about the hunting,
but i think that if u use the right ammo, it could work)
8 strand slingshot means 4 strands each side,
this is EXTREMELY hard to shoot with, and ur hand will, most likely, get tired after couple of shots.
most ppl who use it, are hunting with it,, but if u got the chance to see the slingshot target shooting World Record,
u would notice that the chinese guy used a 8-strand slingshot for target shooting..
( i dont know why he did that for, but i will not argue with the best slingshot shooter in the world, lol)
Hope i helped,, and correct me if im wrong plz ^_^.
==========
Posted 08 July 2011 - 06:58 PM
tubes will normally last considerably longer if properly attached.
However they are slower generally with a heavier pull.
Also I have never used theratubes but I think you will find black very heavy.
Maybe someone else can tell you more about which colour thera to choose.
====================
Theratubes green I found to be a good compromise between speed, power and required muscles to draw.
It delivers quite some impact on my Barnett Black Widow.
Right now I'm experimenting with a Dankung Sniper and try to figure out the best way to shoot that thing.
The three tube sets that came with it,
don't work for me, they are too short and too hard to pull to get all the power out of that sling to be expected.
I have 10meters of 1842 on order but this will take a few more days to arrive.
So far I try a composite mix with theraband gold flatband and theraband green tubes.
I don't have a chronometer so all my "measurements" are subjective to my eye
but I don't feel that I get any significant improvement in speed over my Dankung Cougar which I attached Theraband gold to.
Finding the right "formula" that makes a slingshot more powerful
but not necessarily needs an Arnold Schwarzenegger type of guy is quite a challenge and not very easy,
even more so, if one (like me) is not interested in butterfly style but very interested in precise aiming (gangster) style.
I think there is no general rule which indicates one method is preferably over another.
Both - tubes and flatbands - have their advantages and disatvantages.
In my opinion the best rubber is probably mostly dictated by the design of the slingshot itself.
cheers
================
If you are refering to the Barnett tubes, I would say they are about the same.
cheers
====================
I got famiiar with catapults using a Dankung Jungle Hunter and so I may say that I started shooting with tubes.
After months I got a Milbro with flatbands.
It took a while to get habit and feel sure with therabands,
I often mounded them in an imperfect way (sometimes I still do it) and they went broken easily,
still the accuracy was instable 'cause of my inadeguate experience.
Now I shoot with both and I'd say that tubes are much more practical and fast in shooting for me,
meanwhile I find flatbands more accurate ( if you are good to mount) but I'm still slow in shooting.
I think that fastbands are delicate and more easily broken than tubes, but this is only my point of view.
We all have seen how Rufus used to shoot with bands as well as some chinese shooters are very fast and accurate to shoot with tubes.
I don't really know if flatbands are more powerful than tubes,
I personally don't care too much about that because I practise target only and I don't need much force.
I would like to know what other mates think about this question. Thanks. Best, Bob
Edited by Bob Fionda, 09 July 2011 - 03:12 PM.
========================
Both tubes and flatbands have their own individual characteristics and application of what you want.
For general shooting and shooting that you want to do alot of and you desire to not change elastics too often ,
it is the Chinese Tubes and in particular a fovorite of mine is the 1842 very good all around tubes.
The Marksman and Barnett large diameter tubes are completely worthless in my opinion.
Now if you want to shoot with pin point accuracy and
require a fast moving hard hitting projectile it is thin flat latex that will do it for you one band per fork.
In my opinion.
=======================
=========================
Question: Im buying this to make a new band for my slingshot im wondering if it will have enough strength to hunt small game with
Answer: If you are not satisfied with the power just double up the rubber, most people double it.
This rubber is enough for years but you need to have a rotary cutter and mat.
I tapered my bands 3/4 to 1/2 in. six in. in length.
This is a single peace of thera band 6ft. by 5in. wide.
e. Most agree their is nothing better for slingshots than thera band gold unless you are looking for something that is more durable.
============================
By Zeathan Blakemore on November 10, 2014
I would make a double band set 1" wide if I was going to hunt with the Thera band gold.
By John G on October 26, 2014
It is the strongest band they make. My guess is that it will do fine, but then I am not a hunter.
By Kismet on October 27, 2014
================================
Could I use this on my scout sling shot
Answer: Yes
By Dennis A Nielsen on March 27, 2016
Yes, it should work for any slingshot,
you just have to fold it right. Look on the internet under how to repair the bands on a slingshot.
Should be a lot of instructions on Youtube.
By Virginia Copeland on March 27, 2016
==============================
First off I'm not trying to start any kind of flatbands vs tubes war here,
I'm just curious about other shooters experience with longevity of tubes vs flatbands.
I've been making flatbands from latex, and albeit I'll admit that it's not the highest quality of latex,
but it seems like I wear out my flatbands pretty quick.
I was just curious if others have found that flatbands wear out quicker than tubes.
Chris
==============================
Tubes do tend to last longer than flats. But flats are also much cheaper.
If you want the flats to last a little longer you could try cutting them un-tapered.
==================================
I'm doing a shot count on some mild shooting TheraGold flatbands.
They are cut to 3/4" x 8 5/8" (straight cut). I'm using 3/8" steel and 5/16" steel for ammo.
Velocity was clocked at 178fps and 187fps respectively.
My draw length is around 30". My count is currently at 985 shots with no breakage yet.
A while ago I did a shot count with 1/16" gum rubber flatbands (3/4" x 1/2" x 9 1/4").
If I remember correctly, I got around 1300 shots before breakage.
Cheers,
Northerner
=============================
Posted 16 May 2011 - 09:01 PM
I have a bandset made from 1745 looped,
but tied slightly different on one of my SEAL variants that has shot more than
5000 rounds of 3/8" and 7/16" steel with a little lead ammo mixed in every now and then...
This set is cut a little longer and is drawn to my normal 44" pull,
it shoots a 3/8" steel ball at almost exactly 250 fps at this draw length.
My 0.04 latex bands,
straight cut 1" X 9" when pulled to 44" fire the 3/8" steel balls at about 300 fps...
but they only last about 300 shots.
The bands pull much easier and nicer plus the shot shock is much less as well...
so I very much prefer the bands over the tubes for precision shooting.
But if card cutting cutting precision isn't really necessary,
like hunting for rabbit or squirrel... then the tubes will more than do the trick.
So, I basically have a throw in the truck and go slingshot that's good for most things..
. but if I'm doing card splits or other highly precise shooting,
then it's bands and one of my other slingshots all the way.
===========================
hanks for the input guys.
I'm probably getting around 300 shots out of a set so I feel better about that after reading Bill's post.
I thought it seemed like I was going through them awful fast,
but since what I'm getting out of them and what Bill is getting out of them is pretty close
I think I'm probably getting an average lifespan out of them and just didn't realize it.
Chris
=============================
could someone explain to me what this 1745 number relates to with the tubes?
Chris
==================================
Posted 17 May 2011 - 12:40 AM
the first two digits indicate inner diameter and the last two indicate outer diameter given in millimeters.
so, 1745 has an ID of 1.7 millimeters and an OD of 4.5 millimeters.
also, the general consensus here is that tubes last longer and bands shoot faster.
i and others have found multiple strand tube setups can shoot faster, given same draw weight and projectile weight.
======================
Thanks for the input guys. I'm probably getting around 300 shots out of a set so I feel better about that after reading Bill's post.
I thought it seemed like I was going through them awful fast,
but since what I'm getting out of them and what Bill is getting out of them is pretty close
I think I'm probably getting an average lifespan out of them and just didn't realize it.
Chris
===============================
Tex had some good advice in another posting. He said to keep velocity down at 190fps for more band life.
I'm just under 190fps with 5/16" steel and I'll be breaking 1000 shots on my next shooting session.
I might check band life with a cut that tosses 3/8" lead at approx 190fps.
I'm guessing I will get less than my current target shooting band cut (3/4" x 8 5/8" Golds).
Cheers,
Northerner
=======================================
Posted 17 May 2011 - 06:41 AM
I would reccomend trying a cocktail setup with chinese tubes.
the chinese website claims they will do 330 fps which I can't verify as I don't have a chronny
but the seem fast and I can't see why they should wear out any quicker than normal.
=========================
Posted 17 May 2011 - 07:12 AM
i shoot tubes for convience shoot spanish style tabs for bourd cut forks
and i heard of some shooters using electrical tape or leather to cut down on ott wear
=======================
Although I believe that what has been said to be true there is some factors that make a difference in band life.
I have tested a couple of sets of (Saunders .025 flat bands on Saunders slingshots) and have gotten over 2000 shots.
As far as the looped tubes are concerned the sets that I tested gat about the same (2000 shots).
These entire tests were made about the same speed.
As far as my flats are concerned
I get about 400 shots from a set 0f field bands shot at about 190 fps with 1/2 inch shot on one of my board cuts.
Also the fork tip configuration plays a great part in band life.
Flats tend to last quite a bit longer on a ramp type fork tip such as a Saunders.
Also the Saunders pouch connection has no wrinkles which contribute to long life.
Now for my soap box!
The reason that I promote flats is not life,
but I believe that tubes can cause Carpel Syndrome or Trigger Thumb in some shooters.
My belief is not based on a guess but knowing several people that this has happened to.
When the tendon passes through the hole in the bone the same way many times it gets hard and thick
and then does not want to pass through that hole.
The more pressure on this tendon the more likely it is too happen, no matter how strong you are.
Also the older that you get the more likely it is to occur.
My wife and I both have Carpel Syndrome that may or may not have been caused by shooting heavier bands.
Several of my customers have developed Trigger Thumb.
All have told me that they think that it was caused by shooting too heavy of bands or tubes (not mine).
It is for this reason that I stopped selling tubes and bands with over a 16 pound pull several years ago.
By the way I sold 1/4 inch double tubes long before I saw any Chinese tube type slingshots.
You may shoot heavy bands all of your life without a problem,
but I guarantee you that if you do develop Carpel Syndrome you will be sorry. – Tex-Shooter
==========
Two reasons: They have places on the loops that are tied with string, which causes wear.
Second, they are taperd, which means that the smaller diameter tube on the pouch end ...
is working much harder to pull the thicker loop on the fork end than it otherwise would.
==========================
A set of my TheraGolds broke this afternoon. I was recording all shots with this set of flatbands.
The left band tore 1/2 way through and I didn't want to get smacked so I stopped shooting.
The rubber at the fork ties and pouch ties were fine. The tear happened just before the fork.
The shot count was 1325.
The dimensions were 3/4" straight cut with an 8 1/4" length.
The length started at 8 5/8" but it stretched or slipped to 8 3/4" after many hundreds of shots.
I moved it back to 8 1/4" after a while. My draw length is approx 30".
The TheraGolds cut to 3/4" x 8" are easy to pull to 30" but I find that they still have reasonable velocity/power for targets and cans.
Cheers,
Northerner
Attached Thumbnails
====================
1325 shots is freaking awesome! Thanks for doing the work to keep track.
I have a set of 7/8" (22mm) straight cut Blacks on my everyday shooter now, I'd be thrilled if they last half that long.
For long distance target shooting I'd want something faster but for general all-around shooting the straights are great.
=====================
Interesting; You were using a through the fork attachment.
I would be curious to know the shot count for Over the top attachment would be.
I genuinely thank,
all those that are diligent and patient enough to keep count on how many shots you get out of a band or tube set.
HerecomestheBOOM likes this
====
Theraband Gold vs .050" Latex
The TheraGold that I have measures .030" thickness. I cut straight bands 3/4" x 8".
For comparison I cut some .050" latex flatbands at 5/8" x 1/2" x 8".
The TheraGold is easier to pull but the .050" latex is still a mild pulling band.
My plan is to find easy pulling bands that shoot flat enough for 10-20 yard shooting.
I could try double TheraGolds but I prefer single bands on each side.
Post your suggestions if you have experience with zippy bands that have a mild pull weight.
Draw length is approx 30".
3/4" x 8" straight TheraGold --- 3/8" steel = 192 fps, 5/16" steel = 208 fps
5/8" x 1/2" x 8" (.050") Latex -- 3/8" steel = 213 fps, 5/16" steel = 227 fps
The .050" latex bands and formed leather pouch came from Gary Miller (Flatband).
The frame I cut from some sort of hobby plywood with oak veneer on the outside layers.
Cheers,
Northerner
Attached Thumbnails
=================================================================
I like Gary's 0.50" sheeting.
It also has a great lifespan when the bands are kept a bit on the longer side.
======================
don't use flats much, but I have a few of Gary's bands and prefer them to Theraband.
Very smooth and fast and can be used without doubling.
==============================
Posted 05 May 2011 - 07:37 AM
If you would taper the Thera-band gold 3/4 to 9/16 it would probability shoot as fast or faster than the .050 and pull a lot easier.
The thinner the rubbers having the same pull weight the faster it shoots (multiple strips on the thinner rubber).
Anytime you are shooting over 190 FPS with any rubber you are losing quite a bit of life with that rubber.
That is why I shoot 1/2 steel at about 185.
This gives more power and better life than 3/8 shot from the same bands that I shoot at a faster speed.
Everything is a compromise in speed and band life, tubes of flat.
In fact everything having to do with slingshots is a compromise in one way or another,
such as draw length, band size, fork size, projectile size and shape and draw weight pull.
I have tried about everything and have come to the conclusion that there is no perfect slingshot or set-up for all types of shooting.
Tex-Shooter
=========================
Posted 05 May 2011 - 10:29 AM
I concur and for the record Gary Flatband's .050 latex bands for hunting can deliver an easy 194 fps with .50 cal lead I tested this last summer.
But you dont need that much even for killing and what Tex said is true,
the more you push your bands for speed the shorter their life span.
How you push your elastics is based on your shooting style,
I shoot in a semi butterfly side way flip style
and this means I stretch further so the bands are over worked and expire sooner only I dont really shoot flatbands normally.
Nico
I cut some TheraGold to 3/4" x 9/16" x 8". They shoot a wee bit slower than 3/4" straight cut Golds.
I'm testing a couple more bands and then I'll post the results.
I would like to test a few different types of straight cut flats and then taper the same bands to check velocities.
I'm guessing that some will lose a bit of velocity and some might stay close to the same.
I think the lower draw weight of the tapered bands would be more efficient though (efficiency percentage).
I'm not so sure that tapering bands and losing draw weight would increase velocity. A test will give the answer.
An "apples-to-apples" comparison would be a set of tapered bands that pull the same weight as straight cuts.
The band thickness would need to be slightly different to get this comparison...
or the width of the straight cuts could be adjusted to match draw weight.
The tapered bands would be more efficient and produce more power
but it would be interesting to see the exact numbers with various types of band materials/thicknesses.
Cheers,
Northerner
More test results from this afternoon:
Theraband Gold 3/4" x 8" (straight cut)
.375" lead = 182 fps
3/8" steel = 197 fps
5/16" steel = 211 fps
1/4" steel = 218 fps
Theraband Gold 3/4" x 9/16" x 8"
.375" lead = 177 fps
3/8" steel = 192 fps
5/16" steel = 207 fps
1/4" steel = 214 fps
.050" Latex 5/8" x 1/2" x8"
.375" lead = 197 fps
3/8" steel = 210 fps
5/16" steel = 222 fps
1/4" steel = 230 fps
.050" Latex 3/4" x 1/2" x 8"
.375" lead = 202 fps
3/8" steel = 214 fps
5/16" steel = 227 fps
1/4" steel = 235 fps
Posted 07 May 2011 - 06:43 AM
61.6 grain 1/2 glass ball
8.400012301 gram = 129.632 grain 1/2" 50 calipre steel
To accurately compare the two rubbers, it would be more meaningful to use straight flats of the same cross section.
If you made the .030 Thera-band gold .83 wide and the .050 latex .5 wide,
That would be the same cross section for all practical purposes and should pull about the same.
Thera-band can be purchased almost anywhere as where Pure Latex (like I sell) is somewhat harder to find.
I tell Europe buyers to look for Thera-band all the time, because it is easier to find there. -- Tex-Shooter
Yes I concur pure latex over here is kind of a luxury item,nice when you can get some
I prefer it over Thera but settle with Thera because its easier to get and TBH its pretty good stuff Posted Image
2040 vs 1842 vs 1745 tubes
Slinger16, there is no this is it answer ... answer !
My little PFS uses a 1745 single tube set up using .36-.38 balls and it sends them out at very good speed,
I'm impressed.. but my draw is about 38 inches and static length of the tubes is ~9 inches.
I have not tried 1842 or 2040's so I don't know ...
.. double 2040's may be just the ticket, but I have not tested them.
Many of the folks like 1842 and they may work better for you depending on your ammo weight.
If someone gives you a hard and fast answer, that may be for them and the ammo they shoot and their draw length.
My suggestion would be to buy a small batch of 1842, 1745 and 2040 and see what you like.
I just bought some 3060 to test, as I love 2050 with my weight of ammo and draw and use Kent latex 1/8idx1/16wx1/4od ..
.... so far this is my favorite tube set for hunting, It really sends ammo in the 88-114gr range out fast !!!
I use a pseudo tube set up about 4 double and 5 single.
My needs may be different than yours, if I shoot 40-60 shots a day that is a lot for me as I'm not a target shooter per say.
You on the other hand may shoot 300 shots a day or more, because you enjoy plinking as well as having the power to bring down game.
Take the info everyone says and try to incorporate it into YOUR style of shooting ....there is no right or wrong, there is only what fits you ....
So much for my diatribe ;-)
wll
I believe you've nailed it on the head! Thankyou, I think im just going to buy 1 small batch of each and see how each one holds up and works.
They arent that much either, I shoot marbles, 3/8 steel and 44 cal lead if that helps any bit. Flatbands work alright but the ones I have are a bit on the weak side and they have to be fixed after each shot from entanglement
I would not go with 2040s, i suggest that you go for 1842 for the light ammo (9.5,8mm steel) and for hunting with heavy ammo (10mm lead, 12mm lead) 1745.
Newbie question what is pseudo tapers
Cheers aidy
This will answer your question and more.
http://slingshotforum.com/topic/13242-testing-chinese-tubes/
Posted 16 December 2014 - 11:48 PM
i order tubes direct from dankung and on average they take about 12 days to arrive which i think is ok .
at this time of year maybe longer.
if you don,t mind waiting the prices are so cheap that you can buy several meters for the same price as you will pay for just one meter elsewhere.
have a look at their website
atb
1842 Vs 1745
i made my first tube set last week out of 1842. this week i finally get around to make a set out of the 1745 i got from truly texas.
i put the tubes side by side and i cannot tell the difference .
they look exactly the same size and are both black. od and id look the same. did someone ship me the wrong thing?
It's possible, but eyeballing the difference between 1745 and 1842 takes a pretty well calibrated eyeball, there being only .1 mm difference in inside diameter and .3 mm in outside.
If the band lengths are the same and pull weight is the same, then you probably did get one shipment mislabeled.
thanks...i have downloaded those charts. Henry is right...too close to eyeball. the 1745 is drawing a bit harder...i have to make sure i keep the labels with the tubes.lol
i'm thinking 2040 in yellow for target practice and 1745 for hunting which i don't expect to do unless i have to. everything is illegal in connecticut. grrr
i wish i had not got a multiplex ss off ebay with theraband gold.( under $8) it's my favorite and now my life is more complicated. lol
Hi Douglas, seems strange seeing you in this part of the world. There is a difference in the two sizes, not much visually.
The OD of 1842 mics about .160” and 1742 .185”. I say about because I find variations even within the same rubber not to mention variation in different lots,
and it is difficult to measure a compressible material precisely.
I also think that vendors sometimes get mixed up themselves and send the wrong rubber.
I say this because I was trying to keep my inventory balanced and used about the equal amount of both 1745 and 1845 in early testing and ordered each type alternately a bag at a time.
At present I should have two unused bags of each, while in fact I have 1 bag of 1842 and 3 of 1745. I am more familiar with the rubber now and picked it up visually.
Also supporting this theory I saw a recent post of someone supposedly received 2040 from China but the new rubber did not match the old 2040 but closely matched another existing rubber the man had on hand in both general size and draw weight.
hay pgandy...always a pleasure the hear from "the most interesting man on the planet"(not that beer guy)...
i have maxed out on blowguns and blowgun equipment.
i had to get a variety of stuff the find out what works for me and what i enjoy the most. now it's just practice...
i did the same with slingshots. flats,tubes,dankungs and multiplex. so far my two cheepest ss are my favorites.
i now have to start to figure out ammo.
i've been shooting trumark plastic practice ammo in the house.
i'll hunt if i have to so i think i'd better start practicing with some hunting ammo. i'm not sure what that should be...maybe 3/8 steel?
i'm liking 2040 for in the house and i have 1842 and 1745..i think either would do the job on some dinner.
you were right about the tubes i have ...they look the same but i can feel the difference as soon as i take one shot. big difference.
i just gotta keep the labels from getting mixed up . lol
i'm joining another forum but under an alias. after posting the opsec questions people who really cover their tracks contacted me privately.
their expertise ,military and civilian, has been a real eye opener.
i was shocked to find out just how much of my business is on the net for anyone to find.
i'm not doing anything i need to hide and i'm not gonna flag to the government but info on me should come from me.
well friend, gotta think about getting ready to stay up all night at work. poor me, online all night and reading books. lol
This is the reason I have only been using (and offering) 2040 and 1842. I didn't notice any significant difference in 1745 vs 1842,
but I liked the performance of 1842 better.
Maybe the 1745 would be better for larger diameter ammo (bigger than 7/16" or 1/2"), but not too many tube shooters use that size.
Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:45 PM
I agree with you comlpetely. 1745 pulls harder and seems appropriate for heavier ammo.
I think 2040 will at least for me prove to be best for target and 1842 or 1745 for hunting which can only happen in a "situation".
Nothing is legal in Connecticut. I don,t have any 2040 and may have to order it from Dankung but pouches i would like to get from Percision Catapults.
I can,t find a link to do that ? BTW...i,m saving up for one of thofe african ebory ss.
Looks like the ultimate. Sa...weet.
Druglas
Posted 23 May 2012 - 11:53 PM
So, if 1/2 is the size ammo for 1745 then what is generally the right size for 1842 ? And 2040 ?
I guess most band shooters are using steel for target and hunting. Simple to use one size ball.
I,ve been shooting trumark plastic practice balls in the house.they are pretty light.
Thanks for input.
Druglas
In my opinion, 3/8", 7/16" and 1/2" work well with 1842. I have shyed away from 1/2", and mainly shoot 3/8" and 7/16". 3/8" and 5/16" are great with 2040.
However, MJ really likes 7/16" with 2040. I don't like that combo myself, but that's just me.
True 'dat!
This is my go-to combo for target shooting. Easy draw and I prefer the size of 7/16" for better grip in the pouch.
I like 1842s and 1/2" for pretty much any other kind of shooting because of the power and longevity.
I'm about to go on "Grackle Patrol" to get them out of the garden and 1842s with 1/2" will do very well for that, I think.
Posted 24 May 2012 - 08:32 AM
So...if you were gonna buy one size for both target and hunting using 2040,1842,and 1745 it would be...7/16 ??
1
1842
2
3/8" with 1842 GT and Comp, generates enough kinetic energy to harvest small game, with a head shot.
3
If I were to buy one size I’d go with the 1842. The 1842 band set I like most is one loop cut 13.75”.
After tying they are about 6˝” from the forks.
Originally I cut them 1” shorter.
I couldn’t tell much difference in performance without the chrony
and since the bands generally break at the pouch I get on more tie per set after breaking with the extra length.
I estimate just over 1000 shots per 13.75” cut.
It doesn’t take much effort to pull, and ˝” steel gives about 7˝ fpe and lead a little more than a fpe more.
You should be able to up this by using a pseudo taper. Band life may go down.
Recently I’ve been shooting 1745 more as it pulls harder giving me PT to use 2040 band sets.
I am getting about 10.3 fpe with the 1745 and 12.0 with 2040 which is pulling 19.5#.
I am using the 2040 with a double loop of pseudo tapered band.
All Buns Glazing likes this
4
No, what size balls. Lol.
@pgandy...look for pm on lefora.
======================
Posted 25 May 2012 - 07:27 AM
I know the site, eBay, and have three of theirs. I think they are great buys.
Some knock them because they are of zinc.
I find this an advantage as they pass through metal detectors with no hassle, cheap, and are sufficiently strong.
Mine are different models that measure about 13cm and melt into my hip pocket. I love them. I’ll check the PM on the other forum now. Thanks.
No, what size balls. Lol.
˝" lead.
===============
About a year ago I chrony tested double 1842 tubes. I was impressed by the speed and the longevity.
It shot just a little faster than 1745s I had tested and with less draw weight.
This seemed to coincide with testing done by someone else on another forum.
This person also said that 2040 will shoot the fastest of the 3 popular sizes with ammo up to about 160 grns.
So I figured it was time to get some 2040 and do some tests.
There is just a small glitch in my tests.
The 1842 I tested in the past was amber and the 2040 I just tested is black.
Why?
Because black is all that Simple Shot had. And I'm tired of getting crappy elastic off of ebay,
so from now on I'm only buying from reputable slingshot people.
And if black is all they have, then black it is.
My ammo for both tests is 3/8 hex nuts at 104 grains and .44 lead balls at 126 grains. Bands are 6 1/2 active length.
Not sure of draw length, I just know that I tried to max them out on every shot.
My prior 1842 test: hex nuts at 207 fps and .44s at 198 fps. 5 shot averages.
Now the 2040. Hex nuts at 188 fps and .44s at 181 fps. 5 shot averages.
So for me at least, with my chosen ammo, 1842 is faster than 2040.
I have to say though, that the draw weight on 2040 is very comfortable and I could shoot it all day long.
These results make me wonder if I should retest 1745.
I'm not sure if I want to or not.
It does have a heavy pull that starts to get uncomfortable during a long shooting session and my accuracy begins to suffer
and I remember it irritating my index finger on my drawing hand after a while.
Speed is only one part of the puzzle when you are searching for your favorite elastic.
So for now I may just stick with 1842 and call it done.
But I bet 2040 will shoot lighter ammo like 5/16 hex nuts and .38 lead really well.
wll
Veteran Member
Nice test, I have some 1745 coming that I want to test also. I shot it many many months ago and it sent ammo pretty good for sure !
My 3/16"od, which is like 1745 on steroids is pretty close to 1842, but 1842 is faster and a bit easier to pull, but the 3/16"od is tough stuff.
So far I have been very happy with the small tubes .. have not shot 2040, and I don't think I will,
wll
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