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List_of_knots 

List_of_bend_knots 

List_of_binding_knots 

List_of_coil_knots 

List_of_decorative_knots 

List_of_hitch_knots 

 List_of_friction_hitch_knots

List_of_loop_knots 

List_of_slip_knots 

 List_of_splices

List_of_trick_knots 

List_of_stopper_knots 

List_of_knot_terminology 

List_of_mathematical_knots_and_links
Taut-line_hitch
Blakes hitch
Anchor_bend
Anglers loop
Ashleys bend
Blood_knot
Dropper_loop
Boa_knot
Bowen_knot
Bottle_sling
Bowline
Cats paw_(knot)
Double_sheet_bend
Firemans chair_knot
Anchor_bend
Fishermans knot
Granny_knot
Half_blood_knot
Half_hitch
Hangmans knot
Highwayman hitch
Improved_clinch_knot
Surgeon knot
Marlinespike_hitch
Monkeys fist
Overhand_knot
Prusik
Reef_knot
Rolling_hitch
The Palomar Knot The Improved Clinch The Trilene Knot The Uni Slip Knot The San Diego Jam Knot The Snell Knot The Rapala Loop Knot The Eugene Slip Knot The Alberto Knot The Two-Uni Join Knot The Yucatan Knot The J-Knot The Double-Line Uni Knot The Double Line San Diego Jam Knot The Arbor Knot
1. The Palomar Knot 2. The Blood Knot 3. The Improved Clinch Knot 4. The Surgeon’s Knot 5. The Spider Hitch Knot
PALOMAR KNOT UNI KNOT (AKA HANGMAN’S KNOT) SURGEON’S KNOT (AKA DOUBLE SURGEON’S KNOT) IMPROVED CLINCH KNOT TRILENE KNOT BERKLEY BRAID KNOT NANOFIL KNOT
TRILENE KNOT PALOMAR KNOT BONUS PALOMAR—THE NANOFIL KNOT BERKLEY BRAID KNOT EUGENE BEND KNOT UNI TO UNI KNOT
The Strongest Terminal Knot (for tying on a lure or fly) The Winner: Six-turn San Diego jam: 94% Also tested: Palomar knot: 91% Five-turn double clinch (or Trilene knot): 87% Five-turn improved clinch: 86% The Skinny: Because the San Diego jam uses wraps around both the tag end and standing line, the knot has a better cushion and is stronger than clinch knots, which wrap only one strand. The improved clinch owes its popularity to its old age: It was one of the first knots that worked well with monofilament line, a WWII-era invention. Knots have since advanced -- time to learn the San Diego. (Tied to a size 3 Berkley Cross-Lok snap in tests.) Directions: 1. Thread the line through the hook eye and double it back 10 inches. 2. Wrap the tag end over itself and the standing line six times, moving toward the hook. 3. Pass the tag end through the first open loop at the hook eye. 4. Thread the tag end through the open loop at the top of the knot. 5. Lubricate and tighten by pulling the tag end and standing line, making sure the coils stay in a spiral and don't overlap. Light-to-heavy line splice, for tying on thicker lines such as shock leaders. Winner: Six-turn Yucatan knot (doubled line): 157% Also tested: Five-turn Bristol, or no-name, knot (doubled line): 148% Slim Beauty (single line): 94% Albright (single line): 94% The Skinny: You can splice lines of dissimilar size by tying each single line together, which saves time, or by tying the heavier line to a doubled section of the lighter line (made by first tying a Bimini twist, for example), which adds strength. For knots that don't incorporate doubled line, the Slim Beauty and Albright tested strong. The Beauty is easier to tie. Both doubled-line knots held up better than the single main line of mono, so take your pick. The Yucatan is simpler. (Sufix mono was tied to Orvis Mirage 30-pound fluorocarbon in tests.) Directions: 1. Overlap the doubled line (from a Bimini twist) with the end of a heavier leader by 8 inches. 2. Make six turns around the leader with the doubled line. 3. Thread the tag end of the leader through the double-line loop above the wraps. 4. Moisten and pull on the doubled line and the leader; make sure the leader's tag end doesn't pop out of the loop. Terminal loop knot, for tying on a lure or fly that needs freer movement with a loop at the eye. Winner: Rapala knot: 89% Also tested: Nonslip mono loop: 86% Homer Rhode loop: 80% Five-turn Duncan loop: 60% The Skinny: The Rapala knot wins because the wraps, which are ahead of the initial overhand knot, relieve stress where the standing line enters the rest of the knot. Also, line passes through the overhand knot three times, cushioning the standing line. A Duncan loop, on the other hand, puts all of its compressive force on the standing line at the hook eye without added cushioning. (Tied to an F-9 Original Floater Rapala in tests.) Directions: 1. Tie an overhand knot 6 inches above the tag end of your line. Thread the tag end through the lure eyelet, and then through the overhand knot. 2. Make three wraps around the standing line. 3. Pass the tag end through the back of the overhand knot. 4. Run the tag end through the new loop you formed in step 3. 5. Lubricate and tighten by pulling on the tag end, main line, and lure. Line-to-line splice, for joining lines of similar size Winner: J knot 67% Also tested: Eight-turn Blood knot: 63% Back-to-back five-turn Uni knot: 62% Double surgeon's knot: 61% The Skinny: When you compress monofilament tightly around a very small radius, it tends to crack and fracture. The J knot wins partly because the standing line goes straight through the knot's initial turns, instead of being quickly forced into a sharp bend as happens with the other splicing knots here. Directions: 1. Overlap the ends of the main line and leader by 12 inches. 2. Create a large, open overhand knot. Be sure to pull the leader all the way through. 3. Keep the loop of the overhand knot open as you pass the two lines around the bottom and up through the loop again. Then pass the lines over the top of the loop and back through heading downward. 4. Take one more turn under the bottom part of the loop and up through the loop again. 5. Moisten and then pull on all four ends. http://www.fieldandstream.com/photos/gallery/fishing/bass/where-fish/2009/02/strongest-fishing-knots#page-3
http://www.animatedknots.com/indexfishing.php#ScrollPoint http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/all_fishing_knots http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots
1. Albright Special Knot 2. Blood Knot 3. Homer Rhode Loop Knot 4. Improved Clinch Knot 5. Palomar Knot 6. Snelling A Hook 7. Spider Hitch Knot 8. Double Uni-Knot 9. Haywire Twist 10. Nail Knot http://www.outdoorlife.com/photos/gallery/fishing/2008/09/10-knots-you-must-know#page-10
IMPROVED CLINCH KNOT (for tying line to a hook) PALOMAR KNOT (for tying line to a hook) TURLE KNOT (for tying thin line to a small hook) BLOOD KNOT (for joining two sections of line together) DOUBLE SURGEON’S LOOP (for forming a loop in the end of a line) WIRE LINE TO MONO KNOT(for attaching wire line to monofilament) TUCKED SHEET BEND (for attaching line to a leader loop, or snelled hook to the line) SNELLING A HOOK (for attaching monofilament to a hook) http://fishing.boyslife.org/8-fishing-knots-to-know/
21 ROCK CLIMBING KNOTS AND THEIR USES May 11, 2013 / By nawilkes / in Anchors Course, Blog, Training/ No comment A girth hitch on webbing (above) and bowline on static line (below) secure rigging around a tree trunk. A girth hitch on webbing (above) and bowline on static line (below) secure rigging around a tree trunk. While most of our trips or classes do not require previous knowledge of knots, climbing, or anything technical, some folks like to study a little bit beforehand. Learning knots is particularly useful before a course, as when clients already know some knots, we can use our time for other things, like climbing or anchor building. In our Anchors classes, students who already know the required knots save about an hour of knot instruction throughout the day! I've organized the knots below into groups appropriate for various levels of climbing. All knots are illustrated via a link to Animated Knots by Grog, arguably the best climbing knot learning resource on the web. All you'll need is one or two 10-foot sections of thick rope (it does not have to be climbing rope, but it helps to have rope at least 7mm thick) and you can learn all these knots on a rainy night. Have fun! Basic Knots for Every Climber Figure Eight The foundational knot for the Figure Eight Follow-Through (see next knot). Animated Lesson Figure Eight Follow-Through The best tie-in knot for beginning climbers. Super-strong and fairly easy to tie, the Figure Eight Follow-Through connects a climber's harness to the climbing rope. Animated Lesson Double Fisherman's (Grapevine Knot) The most common way to tidy up extra tail from your Figure Eight Follow Through. Often called a "back-up" knot, the Double Fishermen's does not really back anything up (a well-tied Figure Eight will not fail) but the notion is quite popular and it does look nice. Animated Lesson Girth Hitch (aka Lark's Foot) The most common way to attach a safety tether to your harness. A safety tether is a great piece of gear to install permanently on your harness for outdoor climbing, as it makes clipping into safety lines easy when setting anchors or doing other edge work. Animated Lesson Intermediate Knots for Building Climbing Anchors Overhand (aka Granny Knot) Another foundational knot (like the Figure Eight) that helps you build other knots. If you say to most people, "Put a knot in this," this knots is what they will typically tie. Animated Lesson Overhand on a Bight Overhand on a Bight Overhand on a Bight Key knot in both webbing and rope that creates an attachment point for a carabiner. Figure Eight on a Bight Similar to the Overhand on a Bight, this knot creates a beefier connection point that is easier to untie after being pulled tight while holding a heavy load. Figure Eight Double Loop (aka Super Eight or Hungry Eight) Variation on the Figure Eight on a Bight that has doubled ropes at the attachment point, providing redundancy. Often used as the Master Point knot on an anchor system. Bowline Connects a rope around a tree, boulder, or other immovable, unopenable object. Easy to untie, even after holding a heavy load. More difficult than most knots here to identify when tied incorrectly. Experienced climbers use the bowline as their tie-in knot because it's easy to untie even after taking many falls. Animated Lesson Alpine Butterfly Alpine Butterfly Alpine Butterfly Creates an in-line attachment point in a weight-bearing line. Good knot for creating safety clip-in points while setting anchors. Animated Lesson Flat Overhand (aka European Death Knot) Simple, elegant knot for tying two ropes ends together. Used for connecting two ropes to create a longer one (e.g. rappelling situation) or to create a circular cordelette with a rope or smaller cord. There is nothing deadly about this knot, despite the egregious nomenclature. Animated Lesson Water Knot (webbing) Best knot for connecting two ends of webbing. Can be used to create a loop of webbing or extend a linear piece with another. Animated Lesson Daisy Chain or Electrician's Braid Common way to braid webbing or rope so it stays organized, unknotted, and easy to carry. Animated Lesson Clove Hitch Essential anchoring knot. Creates a strong, fast fixed point that can be adjusted easily. Animated Lesson Advanced Knots for Rescue and Rigging Munter Hitch Great tension hitch for belaying and rappelling. A must-know knot for anyone who thinks they may someday misplace/drop/forget their belay device and need a simple, elegant back-up solution. Not often used in bottom-managed top-rope scenarios, as the Munter Hitch tends to twist up your climbing rope, but common in multi-pitch guiding situations and well-managed rappelling classes for beginners. Animated Lesson Munter-Mule Knot This knot allows you to tie-off your Munter Hitch to "fix" or isolate the line. Animated Lesson Tensionless Hitch Nice method of attaching static line to a tree without using an intermediary sling or webbing. Animated Lesson Prusik The most famous and strongest-holding rope gripping hitch. Can be a bear to release and move after being loaded though! Animated Lesson Klemheist Another rope-gripping hitch that is a little easier to release/slide than the Prusik. Animated Lesson Bachmann Yet another rope-gripping hitch that uses a carabiner, which makes it much easier to release/slide when you want to move it. Autobloc My favorite rope-gripping hitch for backing up a rappel. When mastered, the Autobloc allows you to rappel faster than without it because the heat of friction is absorbed by the cord, not your hand. The benefit of being able to stop and go hands-free whenever you want to is wonderful while on rappel, and very useful when you need to stop and untangle rope or take pictures on the way down.
There are a lot of cool things about rock climbing, from the full-body fitness required to make it up many climbs, to the incredible ways that climbers can manage to keep their bodies on the rock, but one of the most underrated things about climbing has got to be the knots. After all, these knots aren't just keeping shoes on your feet or a trash bag closed – they're capable of keeping the full weight of a body from dropping right off the face of a cliff. But you don't have to ever step foot on the rock in order to take advantage of this knowledge, as most of the common rock climbing knots can be used very effectively for other, non-climbing purposes. Here's a selection of climbing knots that every guy (and gal) should know: 1. Figure Eight Knot on a Bight: The Figure Eight is an incredibly strong climbing knot, and can be tied in at least two different ways – on a bight (meaning in the middle of a rope, not the end), and with a follow-through (see below). Tying a Figure Eight Knot on a bight can be a strong, quick solution to create a loop for securing an object, and it's also really simple to tie. Watch the simple instructions below: 2. Figure Eight Knot with Follow Through: The Figure Eight with Follow Through is the bombproof method climbers use to attach their harness to the end of the rope, and it's essentially the same as the above, except you're starting with the end of the rope, not with a loop in the middle of it. If you can get that first figure eight tied, all you've got to do is take the end and follow the rope back around through the knot so that it ends up coming out the top, right next to the other strand. It's easier to watch than to read about: 3. Clove Hitch: The Clove Hitch might be a familiar knot to many of you – even if you don't know it by that name. It's a very handy knot to know, as it's easy to tie and to adjust, and I'm sure you'll find a bunch of uses for it after you learn to tie it. But be sure to pay attention to how the loops lie, otherwise you'll just end up with a coil of rope, not a clove hitch. 4. Bowline Knot: The Bowline is another knot used to fasten a climbing harness to the end of a rope (though not quite as common anymore as the Figure Eight). While it's not the easiest to learn to tie at first, once you know how, it will be an indispensable tool for securing the end of a rope to just about anything. It also happens to be one of the knots which can be tied with one hand, which might just come in handy someday. 5. Water Knot: The Water Knot is the best way to join flat pieces of material (webbing, seat belts) together, but it also makes it possible to join two ropes together securely. Similar in concept to the follow-through on the Figure Eight Knot above, once the overhand knot is tied on the first piece of material, simply follow the webbing back through the knot from the other end. Again, it's easier to watch than to read: 6. Prusik Knot: The Prusik is a classic ascending knot, oftentimes used for self rescue, but also incredibly handy for attaching an object to a rope. It's easily adjustable, yet securely grips the other rope under load. It's tied using a loop of rope (which can be secured to itself with a water knot or fisherman's knot (below). Check out the video: 7. Double Fisherman's Knot: The Double Fisherman's Knot is an incredibly secure way of joining two ropes together, end to end, and while it might seem similar to the Water Knot at first, it's actually a different knot altogether. It's not the fastest knot in the world to tie, but if you've got a need to join pieces of rope securely, this one's a charm.
Climbing Knots Building Your Own Climbing Wall If you want to build your own climbing wall, get this book. It's packed with information, tricks, and clear step by step color illustrated examples. This book will save you time and money. Highly recommended. Amazon: Building Your Own Climbing Wall Knot Tying for Climbers The ability to tie knots correctly is an essential skill for climbers and many others involved in extreme sports. Correctly tying in and anchoring is essential to the safety of the climber and his/her partners. An incorrectly tied climbing knot may lead to an unprotected fall. Several knots are commonly used in climbing, listed below. Reviewing and practicing them with a friend will help keep you sharp for the time a particular climbing knot is needed. Climbing Knot vs Rope Strength A key component of the climbing knot is the rope strength. The quality of the knot can actually influence the load your rope can withstand. Your skill in knot tying (how clean is your knot) will influence the breaking strength of a rope, and add to your safety while climbing. Dress up the Climbing Knot This refers to tightening and setting the knot in a way that the rope does not cross (twist) over itself within the knot; and refers to the knot being tightened evenly. Climbing knots should be uniformly tight and the rope should not twist within the knot. When the rope is twisted or the knot is unevenly tightened it puts stress on parts of the fibers and unintentionally weaken the rope. Sport Climbing Knots Figure 8 Knot Figure 8 KnotCommonly used by sport climbers to secure the rope to the harness. The figure 8 knot can be tied in two ways. The steps to tie the knot depend on how you intend to use it. To tie the rope to a harness directly the rope needs to feed through the harness loop. If you need to connect the rope to a carabiner you can tie it using a different procedure. The Stopper Knot Stopper KnotThe Stopper Knot is also called a double overhand knot. This knot is tied at the end of the climbing rope to stop the end from pulling through the rappel or belay device. It is also used with other knots to prevent the lose end from from pulling through and un-tying. The end of figure-8 and bowline knots should be secured with the stopper knot. The Monkey's Fist Monkey's Fist KnotThe Monkey's Fist knot is used to add weight to the end of a rope so it can be thrown. This makes it possible to throw a rope much further than without the knot. The knot is easy and quick to tie. This knot has a good applications in climbing situations when you need to heave a rope ... over a ledge, over bushes, up to a routesetter, etc. Tie a Slip Knot Tie a Slip KnotSlip knots are easy to tie. This type of climbing knot is used as a temporary tie for gear, second backup tie-in to an anchor, or quick utility knot. When one end of the rope is pulled the knot "slips" tight. When the other end of the rope is pulled the knot pulls out. The slip knot is useful because it is easy to tie and when tied correctly tightens on the anchor. Overhand knot Overhand KnotThe Overhand knot, Double Overhand Knot, and Multiple Overhand Knots. Primarily used as stoppers at the ends of climbing ropes, however they are also used in the start of other knots such as the fisherman's knot. Fisherman's Knot and the Double Fisherman's Knot Fisherman's KnotUse it to tie two ropes together inline. The Prusik Knot Prusik KnotThe Prusik Knot is used to ascend a climbing rope with another rope. Bowline Knot Bowline KnotThe bowline is one of two common knots for tying in to the climbing harness. This knot can be tied with one hand, making tying the bowline knot an attractive skill to have. It is easy to adjust and easy to untie. Note the loose end in the picture... this must be tied with a stopper knot to secure it. If this loose end is not tied with a stopper, the end may pull through which will cause it to untie. Carrick Bend Carrick BendThis knot is used to connect two ropes together. Has an easy pattern. Water Knot Water KnotSometimes called the tape knot because it is commonly used in rock climbing to tie two runners together to make a sling. Can also be used as a knot to connect two ropes. Square Knot and Granny Knot Square Knot and Granny KnotThe Square Knot and Granny Knot are the most common, and easiest to tie. Knots for Climbers, 3rd (How To Climb Series) Carrick BendThis is an illustrated book providing sequences and examples for tying climbing knots. It covers all the common knots plus many other knots. The presentation uses clear color photos making it easy to understand and learn. Some of the knots are the Munter hitch, auto block, clove hitch, and figure eight. See them in use in the field along with how they are used with climbing equipment. Climbing: Knots Knots for ClimbersFeatures easy to understand, and illustrated instructional knot-tying for the novice climber. It's a nice, pocket-size book, portable and easy-to-use, with clear photos throughout to assist with learning.
8 Essential Climbing Knots May 11, 2014 | LEAVE A COMMENT As you may know, most of my climbing consists of bouldering, but I do love me some rope every once in a while. In fact, I wish I climbed on rope a little more often. I think I’ll start making a bigger effort to make trips to the sport climbing crag more often (i.e. convincing my husband to go sport climbing more often). So regardless of how much or little you climb on rope (even if not at all), it’s important to be familiar with the skills of tying knots. We trust our life on knots, so it only makes sense to, at the very least, take a couple minutes to understand common climbing knots so we can prepare ourselves for many situations. Even if you don’t climb on rope at all, I believe knots are part of the basics of climbing and every climber should at least have these kinds of skills in their repertoire. You never know what kind of situation you may find yourself in so it’s best to be prepared. Plus, it’s not just yourself that you’re helping, your knowledge could help other climbers. Below I’ve listed 8 common climbing knots. Depending on the type of climber you are you don’t HAVE to know every single one of these, but I wouldn’t hurt. ?? Just take a moment to understand the type of climber that you are, then read through the different knots and learn the ones that will be the most valuable to you. If there is only one thing you take away from this, let it be to ALWAYS DOUBLE CHECK YOUR KNOTS! You can never be too experienced to avoid doing this. A well trained climber never takes safety lightly. 1. Figure 8 Follow Through Purpose: The standard knot used to tie yourself (via your harness) into a rope. Probably the most popular type of climbing knot and one that every climber should know. It’s a very strong, non-slip knot; as it should be since your life depends on it. It works so well because in tightens onto itself as load is applied which makes it basically impossible for it to become untied while you climb, which I’m sure you’ve realized as you’ve attempted to undo a figure 8 knot that you took a couple whippers on. Another great thing about this knot is that it is very easy to inspect. It is important for both you and your belayer to be able to inspect a knot easily so you can immediately know if it’s ok or not. Figure 8 knot2. Fisherman’s Backup Purpose: To backup your tie-in knot. You trust your tie-in knots with your life so having a backup knot to make sure it doesn’t untie is always the way to go. There are a couple backup knots, but the fisherman’s backup is the most secure. The fisherman’s backup has two loops around the standing rope, however, if I have a lot of slack I’ll loop around 3 or 4 times so I don’t have a long loose strand hanging down and annoying me. Fishermans backup3. Figure 8 On A Bight Purpose: Most commonly used to tie yourself into anchors or used to lower off of. The figure 8 on a bight is a very strong knot that is reliable and easy to untie, even after being weighted. The knot is simple to create and can easily be made in the mid-section of any rope, so long as the rope is not tight. Basically, when you tie this knot you are creating a strong loop in the rope that you can clip into with a locking carabiner. Figure 8 on a bite4. Clove Hitch Purpose: Most commonly used to tie into belay anchors. The clove hitch is a simple knot that doesn’t use up a lot of rope. It’s quick to tie, untie and even adjust. When a clove hitch is placed on the locking carabiners of each anchor, the distance between you and the anchors can be easily adjusted so that you can ensure that each rope is carrying equal tension. One important thing to note about the clove hitch is that they must be pulled and kept tight in order to avoid slipping. Clove hitch5. Double Figure-8 Fisherman’s knot Purpose: To tie two ropes together for top-roping or rappelling. The double figure-8 fisherman’s knot is a completely secure knot and is known to be stronger and more reliable than the typical double fisherman’s knot. It does have a bigger profile though, so it can have a greater chance of getting caught on something during rappels. For top ropes, the knot is placed just past the anchors on the belayers side of the rope. So, as you climb the knot descends toward your belayer. Double Figure 8 Fisherman's knot6. Double Bowline Knot Purpose: Most commonly used to form a secure fixed loop. The loop created with double bowline knot is good for securing around trees. It is easy to tie and also unties easily even after sever loading. Some climbers even use it to tie into a rope instead of using a figure-8 knot, however, I (and many others) don’t recommend using it as a tie-in knot since it is not as secure and can untie easily. Double Bowline Knot7. Water knot Purpose: To tie create a loop in a single piece of webbing or to tie two pieces of webbing together. Water knots are commonly use when building anchors with webbing. They are known to slip slightly so it’s important to make sure you have, at the very least, 3 inches remaining on each end tail. Some climbers even tape or sew the ends to prevent the knot from creeping. If you already have sewn webbing slings available then those would obviously be more preferred if you’re using it for an anchor. Sewn webbing slings are stronger and more reliable than one you tie and create yourself. Water Knot8. Münter Hitch (With Tie Off) Purpose: Used for belaying or rappelling The Münter hitch is a great knot to know when you need to create a back up system to perform a belay or rappel. Obviously, using an actual belay device is safest, but situations can come up where you’ve lost or dropped your device, so knowledge of this knot can be beyond helpful. This knot should only be used on a locking carabiner that is large enough to let the knot invert based on whether you are taking or feeding rope. The tie off is used to secure the Münter hitch. Munter hitch Tie off for Munter hitch
List of climbing knots From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia This article does not cite any sources. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (March 2007) (Learn how and when to remove this template message) Part of a series on Climbing Pictograms-nps-land-technical rock climbing.svg Background Golden age of alpinism History of rock climbing Types Aid Big wall Bouldering Buildering Competition Crack Deep water solo Face Free Free solo Ice Indoor Lead Mixed Mountain Rock Rope Roped solo Slab Solo Speed Sport Top rope Trad Tree Lists Climbers Equipment Knots Terminology Terms Abseiling Belaying Grades Gear Belay device Dynamic rope Harness Protection Shoes Climbing companies Black Diamond CAMP Five Ten Grivel La Sportiva Metolius Climbing The North Face Patagonia Petzl Rab Wild Country Walltopia v t e There are many knots used in climbing, rappelling and mountaineering. Popular climbing knots are briefly described and depicted in this article. Bends Beer knot.JPG Beer knot: The Beer knot is often used in tubular webbing, usually for making slings. Double fisherman's knot WPK.jpg Double fisherman knot (also known as Grapevine):The Grapevine knot is useful to tie together two ends of ropes. Ropes can be of unequal sizes. It is often used to tie both ends of the same rope together to form a circle. Triple fisherman's knot Overhand bend WPK.jpg Overhand bend (also known as European death knot, Euro death knot, EDK):The Overhand bend is a simple and fast way to join two ropes, notably for rappelling. Can be very useful in situations where speed is critical to safety. It is similar to a water knot, but both bitter ends come out the same side of the knot. Water knot WPK.jpg Water knot (also known as Tape Knot, Double Overhand Bend, Ring Bend):The Water knot is useful to tie together two ends of ropes. Often used with webbing. Binding Strangle knot WPK.jpg Strangle knot: The Strangle knot is a simple binding knot. It forms both sides of a Double fisherman's knot, and is also used to back up loop knots and both ends of bends. Hitches Bachmann knot WPK.jpg Bachmann knot:The Bachmann knot is useful when the friction hitch needs to be reset quickly/often or made to be self-tending as in crevasse and self-rescue. Clove hitch WPK.jpg Clove hitch:The Clove hitch is used in belay systems among other things. Italian hitch WPK.jpg Italian hitch (also known as Munter hitch, HMS):The Italian hitch is a simple knot, used by climbers and cavers as part of a life-lining or belay system. Its main use is as a friction device for controlling the rate of descent in belay systems. Klemheist knot WPK.jpg Klemheist knot:The Klemheist knot is an alternative to the Prusik knot, useful when the climber is short of cord but has plenty of webbing. Prusik WPK.jpg Prusik:The Prusik is a knot used mainly for emergency use. Some carry between one and three cords specifically for prusiks. One can be used to quickly secure a person's position to correct problems with equipment; two can be used as a method of ascending a rope. Blakes hitch knot retouched.png Blake's hitch:Blake's hitch is widely used in tree climbing applications. The knot can be slid up and down a line manually, but when loaded, it sticks securely. Tête d'alouette.jpg Girth hitch: This hitch is commonly used to attach loops of runner to harnesses, bags, other kinds of equipment, and to natural features like rock knobs or brush/tree trunks for protection. Loop Knots Alpine butterfly knot WPK.jpg Alpine butterfly knot:The Alpine Butterfly is a strong and secure loop knot. Allows load distribution in multiple directions. It can also be used to isolate a worn section of rope. Figure-of-eight loop 2 WPK.jpg Figure-of-eight loop:The Figure-of-eight loop is considered strong and secure. Can be tied by taking a bight of rope and tying a figure-of-eight knot or can be tied directly around/through objects before weaving back through the first figure eight knot (Figure-of-eight follow through). Inline figure-of-eight loop 2 WPK.jpg Directional Figure-of-eight Loop: The Inline figure-of-eight loop is similar to a figure-of-eight loop but used to form a loop that will be loaded longitudinally in a line under tension. Particularly useful in rope tightening systems where the loop is established as a means to secure a pulley or carabiner onto the main line to reduce the amount of work needed to tighten the entire system. Similar to a trucker's hitch. Doublebowline.jpg Double bowline: The double bowline is commonly used by sport climbers who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights. Double Figure-Eight Loop.jpg Double Figure Eight Loop (also known as Bunny Ears): Used for equalising two anchors using the rope. Yosemitebowline.jpg Yosemite bowline: Also called a bowline with a Yosemite finish, this is another way of tying the rope to the harness. Doppelter Palstek.jpg Bowline on a bight: Used for equalizing anchors. Stopper Knots Stevedore knot WPK.jpg Stevedore knot (also known as Double figure eight):The Stevedore knot is tied at the end of a rope to prevent the end from unraveling, slipping through another knot, or passing back through a hole, block, or belay/rappel device. It is more bulky and less prone to jamming than the closely related figure-of-eight knot. Overhand knot WPK.jpg Overhand knot:The Overhand knot is a component of many knots used in climbing. Monkey's fist WPK.jpg Monkey's fist:The Monkey's Fist is used to tie the end of a climbing rope into a tight ball so the rope can be thrown farther/easier. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_climbing_knots
The Seven Need-to-Know Climbing Knots posted on May 6, 2015 If you’re going to be a rock climber, you don’t necessarily need to know how to tie your shoes (as long as you wear Velcro slippers), but there are seven essential knots you’ll want to know. There are dozens of knots that might be worth learning as a climber, but for the most part, you can get up and down any climb on Earth with just these basic, essential knots—The Figure-8 Retraced, Girth Hitch, Clove Hitch, Munter Hitch, Double Fisherman’s, Prusik and Euro Death Knot. Know them, learn them, and practice them until you can tie them in your sleep. EURO DEATH KNOT eurodeathknot What is it: A knot used for joining two climbing ropes together for a rappel. The Offset Water Knot, otherwise known to climbers by the misleading (and inaccurate) name of “Euro Death Knot” (EDK), is the best knot for joining two ropes together for a rappel. Why it’s cool: Easy to tie. Easy to untie. Less likely to get hung up on rock features during rappels. Red Flags/Rules: Leave at least 8 to 12 inches of tail. How to Tie it FIGURE-8 RETRACED figure8 What is it: The basic knot for “tying in”—i.e., for tying the rope to your harness. Why it’s cool: Easy to inspect. Easy (enough) to untie after being loaded in a fall. Red flags/Rules: Always have at least six inches of tail How to Tie it GIRTH HITCH girth-hitch What is it: A knot for tying climbing slings to various features including: the belay loop of your harness, bolt hangers at anchors, and “threads” of rock, horns/chicken heads on trad routes. Why it’s cool: Easy to tie, can be tied with one hand, and is useful in many situations. Red Flags/Rules: Don’t leave slings girth-hitched to your harness belay loop for extended periods of time. How to Tie it CLOVE HITCH clove-hitch What is it: A knot for quickly tying a climbing rope to a carabiner. Great for tying yourself in to an anchor. Also the clove hitch is especially handy when equalizing an anchor using the rope. Why it’s cool: Easy to tie and untie after being weighted. Easy to adjust after being tied. Can be tied with one hand, allowing you to quickly clip to an anchor or bolt. Red Flags/Rules: At a certain force, clove hitches will begin to slip, which is why they aren’t recommended as the sole knot for tying yourself into an anchor, and they are best paired with another knot such as a Figure-8 on a bite. However, it’s virtually impossible to ever generate a large-enough and consistent-enough force to cause the clove hitch to slip in a dangerous way. How to Tie it MUNTER HITCH munter What is it: A knot that allows you to belay or rappel on a rope with nothing more than a single locking carabiner. Why it’s cool: This knot could save you if you drop your standard belay/rappel device. Red Flags/Rules: Not recommended for anything other than emergency use. The Munter Hitch severely kinks the rope, especially in a rappel. How to Tie it PRUSIK prusik1 What is it: A way to attach a piece of cord to a (thicker) climbing rope. The main use is to back up your rappel device (not covered in article). You can also use a prusik as a way to ascend a rope (if you don’t have a mechanical ascender). There are also a multitude of uses for self-rescue and escaping belays. Why it’s cool: Easy to tie and untie, and may come in handy more than you’d think. With two prusiks, you can ascend a fixed line, potentially getting yourself out of a pickle. Red Flags/Rules: Make sure the loops/coils are neat. How to Tie it DOUBLE FISHERMAN’S fishermans What is it: A knot used for tying two ends of a cord or rope together. Use this knot to create a cordellette (a piece of cord tied into a loop) or to create a prusik. Why it’s cool: Reliable, safe knot for joining two ends of a rope or cord together. Red Flags/Rules: This knot will weld itself shut over time, effectively making it impossible to untie. This knot is only to be used for joining two pieces of rope or cord. To join two pieces of tubular webbing, use a water knot (not covered here). How to Tie it RELATED Making The Transition To Trad How To Build Your First Trad Rack SOL: How To Beat The Core Shot Bunny Ears: The Best Multi-Pitch Climbing Knot You’ve Never Heard Of SHOP Climbing Ropes Climbing Shoes Climbing Gear & Equipment
Climbing Knots, Hitches and Bends tying into harness using climbing figure 8 follow through knot Few skills are as fundamental to climbing as working with rope. Your life literally depends on your mastery of the subject. This article and accompanying videos cover the most common knots, hitches and bends used in climbing. For starters, you need to understand the distinction between a “knot” and other key terms related to rope management: Knot – a knot is tied in a rope or piece of webbing. Hitch – a hitch connects a rope to another object like a carabiner or even another rope. Bend – a bend is a knot that joins two ropes together. Bight – a bight is a section of rope between the ends. Standing end – the standing end or part of the rope is the side that’s not being used during knot tying. Working end – the working end or part of the rope is the side that is being used during knot tying. Climbing Knots Several basic knots are useful for securing the rope to a harness or to a natural anchor: Figure 8 Knot (Rewoven Figure 8 Knot/Figure 8 Follow Through Knot) Figure 8 Knot (Rewoven Figure 8 Knot/Figure 8 Follow Through Knot) The Figure 8 Knot is the most common knot for tying the rope into your harness. Grab the end of the rope in one hand; extend your arm and measure out a length from your fist to your opposite shoulder. Pinch a bight from where you’ve measured at your shoulder and twist it one full rotation so that the standing part of the rope crosses over the working side, then twist it again so that it comes around to its original position. Then pass the working end of the rope through the loop from front to back. The result should look like a figure 8. To form the follow through, pass the end of the rope through both tie-in points on your harness, and pull the knot in close to you. Now feed the rope back through the knot, tracing the original knot as you go. You want the working end to run completely parallel to the standing part of the original knot. Once you’ve worked the end all the way through, dress the knot by making sure the strands are neat and run parallel. Tighten the knot by pulling each strand tight individually. Make sure you have at least six inches of tail. You can check the knot by counting five sets of parallel lines. Video: How to Tie a Figure 8 Knot Bowline Knot Bowline Knot The Bowline Knot is a useful knot for tying the rope to a tree or other natural anchor. It's unlikely to slip when loaded, but it might shake loose when it's unloaded, so be sure to back it up with a stopper knot. Start by wrapping the rope around the object you're connecting to the rope. Form a small loop in the standing side of the rope by crossing the rope over itself. The side leading to the working end of the rope needs to be on the top of the loop. Now feed the working end up through the loop so that it runs parallel to the standing side. Then bring the working end behind the standing side, around it, and back down through the loop. Dress the knot by pulling on the two strands that come through the loop and the standing side at the same time. Pull all strands tight individually. Video: How to Tie a Bowline Knot Double Bowline Knot Double Bowline Knot The Double Bowline Knot is an alternative knot for tying into a harness. It’s easier to untie than a Figure 8 after taking multiple falls. But because of this, it has to be backed up with a double overhand knot. Feed the rope through the tie-in points on your harness. Grab the standing end and drape it over your palm between your thumb and forefinger. Now grab the rope between your hand and your harness and wrap it twice around your thumb. Slide the loops from your thumb, and rotate them so that the rope leading to the working end is on top. Feed the working end up through the loops so that it runs parallel to the standing side. Then, bring the working end behind the standing side, around it, and back down through the loops. Dress the knot by pulling on the two strands that come through the loops and the standing side at the same time. Pull all four strands tight individually. Finish by tying a double overhand knot against the double bowline. Video: How to Tie a Double Bowline Knot Climbing Knots on a Bight These knots let you form a loop in a rope. They are “on a bight” because they’re tied in the middle of the rope and not on the end. Figure 8 Knot on a Bight Figure 8 Knot on a Bight The Figure 8 Knot on a Bight is a convenient knot to use any time you need to form a loop in the middle of a rope, especially if the knot needs to take a heavy load. Find a bight in the rope, pinch it into a loop and hold it in one hand. With your other hand, pinch the two strands about a foot from the bight. Cross the bight over the standing strands to form a loop. Then bring the bight under the rope, back over and through the loop. Dress the knot by making sure the strands run parallel, and pull each strand tight individually. Video: How to Tie a Figure 8 Knot on a Bight Overhand Knot on a Bight (Overhand Loop) Overhand Knot on a Bight (Overhand Loop) The Overhand Knot on a Bight is great when you want to form a loop in the middle of the rope, especially if it’s going to take a lighter load. Find a bight in the rope, pinch it into a loop and hold it in one hand. With your other hand, pinch the two strands about a foot from the bight. Cross the bight over the standing strands to form a loop. Then, bring the bight under the rope, and through the loop. Dress the knot by making sure the strands run parallel, and pull each strand tight individually. Video: How to Tie an Overhand Knot on a Bight Butterfly Knot Butterfly Knot The Butterfly Knot forms a loop in the middle of a rope and is especially useful for the middle member of a rope team because it won’t deform after a pull in either direction. Grab the section of rope where you want to tie the knot and loop it over your open palm three times, starting close to your thumb. Move the strand closest to your thumb over the other two loops. Grab the loop that’s now closest to your thumb and pull out a little extra slack. Then, move it over the other two loops, and then pass it under. Take the rope off your hand, and pull it tight. Dress the knot by pulling the two standing strands to the side. Video: How to Tie a Butterfly Knot Overhand Knots for Climbing These knots are a variation on the simple overhand knot. They allow you to create a secure stopper knot in the rope. Barrel Knot (Triple Overhand Knot) Barrel Knot (Triple Overhand Knot) The Barrel Knot is the knot of choice for closing the system while belaying or rappelling; it does the critical job of ensuring that the end of the rope can’t accidentally feed through the belay device. Find the end of the rope and pull out about an arm’s length. Drape the rope over the middle of your palm with the working side on the back of your hand. Wrap the working end over your hand and the standing side of the rope to form an X over your palm. Wrap the working end over again so that there are two parallel strands crossing the first. Feed the end under all three loops starting near your thumb. Carefully slide the rope off your hand, keeping the strands in position as you tighten the knot. Dress the knot by making sure the stands are parallel and tighten the knot by pulling on both sides of the rope. Make sure you have at least 18 inches of tail. Video: How to Tie a Barrel Knot Stopper Knot (Double Overhand Knot) Stopper Knot (Double Overhand Knot) A Stopper Knot (technically a Double Overhand) is useful as a backup knot for other knots. It’s also one half of a Double Fisherman’s Knot. When you’re using the double overhand as a backup knot, make sure to tie it as close as you can to the knot you’re backing up to keep the rope from slipping. Hold the rope in one fist with your thumb resting on the rope. Make sure you have about 18 inches of tail. Wrap the working end over your thumb, bring it under, and fully wrap it over again to form an X. Then, slide your thumb out and feed the rope through the X you just formed. Dress the knot by pulling it tight. Video: How to Tie a Stopper Knot Bends for Climbing Bends offer options for connecting two ropes, or creating a loop out of cord or webbing. While the examples below are technically bends, it's very common to hear people call some of them knots so that's what we've done here. Double Fisherman’s Knot (Grapevine Knot) Double Fisherman’s Knot (Grapevine Knot) The Double Fisherman’s is a very secure way to join two ropes or form a cord into a loop. It’s very difficult to untie after it gets weighted, so it makes a good choice for Prusik loops. The Double Fisherman's is essentially two double overhand knots pulled together. You can make a Triple Fisherman’s by using triple overhand knots. Bring the two ends of the rope together so that they overlap. Hold the end of one rope in your fist with your thumb over the rope. Then, wrap the working end of the other rope over your thumb and the first rope, bring it under, and fully wrap it over again to form an X. Carefully slide your thumb out and feed the rope through the X you just formed. Pull the knot tight. You should see an X on one side and two parallel strands on the other side with the other rope inside the knot. Now pull the other rope through so you have enough slack to work with, and repeat the process. The rope that you pull through will be your new working end. Form an X over your thumb, and push the end of the rope through the X. You’ll end up with two knots with two strands of rope between them. Dress the knots by pulling them tight. Then pull the outer ropes to bring the knots together. The finished Double Fisherman's should have two Xs on one side and four parallel strands on the other. Make sure that both ropes have plenty of tail (About 18 inches of tail is appropriate when tying two ropes together for rappelling. At least three inches of tail is required when making loops with accessory cord). Video: How to Tie a Double Fisherman's Knot European Death Knot (Overhand Bend) European Death Knot (Overhand Bend) Commonly known as the European Death Knot, or EDK for short, the Overhand Bend is a simple, effective way to join two rappel ropes. The major benefit is that the knot flattens out when loaded, so it’s less likely to get stuck on the wall as you pull the ropes down. When setting up to rappel, make sure you don't accidentally tie a Flat Figure 8 Knot (sometimes called an Offset Figure 8 Knot). The Flat Figure 8 is not a suitable way to connect two ropes for rappelling. Bring the ends of both ropes together and tie a simple overhand knot with both strands. Make sure the ropes run completely parallel throughout the knot. Dress and tighten the knot by pulling all four strands tight individually. Make sure to leave at least 18 inches of tail, and tie a stopper knot in one of the tails. Despite the name, the European Death Knot is very secure when properly tied. The name is said to have been coined by American climbers who declared the knot unsafe after witnessing Europeans using it. However, proper use has proven otherwise and the knot is commonly utilized. Video: How to Tie a European Death Knot Figure 8 Bend (Flemish Bend) Figure 8 Bend (Flemish Bend) This is an easy way to connect two ropes or to form a cord into a loop. It’s essentially a figure 8 Follow Through Knot tied with two ropes. Be careful not to tie a Flat Figure 8 Knot (sometimes called an Offset Figure 8). The Flat Figure 8 is not a suitable way to connect two ropes for rappelling. To form the figure 8 knot, measure out about an arm’s length of rope. Pinch a bight from where you’ve measured at your shoulder and twist it one full rotation so that the standing part of the rope crosses over the working side; then twist it again until it comes around again to its original position. Then pass the working end of the rope through the loop from front to back. This is the figure 8 knot. Now feed the other rope back through the knot, tracing the original knot as you go. You want the working end to run completely parallel to the standing part of the original knot. Once you’ve worked the end all the way through, dress the knot by making sure the strands are neat and run parallel. Tighten the knot by pulling each strand tight individually. Make sure you have plenty of tail (About 18 inches of tail is appropriate when tying two ropes together for rappelling. At least three inches of tail is required when making loops with accessory cord.) You can check the knot by counting five sets of parallel lines. Video: How to Tie a Figure 8 Bend Water Knot (Ring Bend) Water Knot (Ring Bend) The Water Knot is the go-to for joining two pieces of tubular webbing. The water knot can work itself loose over time, so check and retighten it often. Start by tying a very loose overhand knot in one end of the webbing. Make sure there’s plenty of tail. Take the other end of the webbing and trace it through the knot. The key is to keep both strands of webbing completely parallel throughout the knot. Once you’ve fed the webbing all the way through, make sure each side has at least three inches of tail, and dress the knot by pulling all strands tight individually. Video: How to Tie a Water Knot Climbing Hitches Incredibly versatile, hitches are easy to tie, they do their job well and, when you remove them from the object, they immediately unravel: There’s no knot left to untie. Girth Hitch Girth Hitch The Girth Hitch is an easy way to connect a loop of webbing or cord to a fixed point like a tree, or your harness’s tie-in points. Here we show the hitch around a carabiner, but the process is the same on any object. Circle one end of the loop around the object. Then feed the other end of the loop through the first loop, and pull it snug. Video: How to Tie a Girth Hitch Clove Hitch Clove Hitch The Clove Hitch allows you to secure a rope in place on a carabiner. It’s easy to untie after taking a heavy load, and quickly unravels when you unclip it from the carabiner. Many climbers use it to connect directly to an anchor. You can tie a clove hitch with two hands or with one. Hold the rope in both hands, and form a loop by crossing the rope over itself. Then form a second loop in the same way. Now move the second loop behind the first, and clip both loops with a carabiner. Dress the hitch by pulling both strands tight. If you’re at the anchor, you can also tie the clove while you hold onto the anchor carabiner with one hand. Grab the rope in your fist with your finger pointing down the rope. Bring your hand up so that your finger points up and toward you. Then clip the rope into the carabiner. Now grab the rope below the carabiner and do the same thing again. Grab it with your finger pointing down, bring it up so that your finger points up and toward you, and clip it into the carabiner. Dress the hitch by pulling both strands tight. Video: How to Tie a Clove Hitch Munter Hitch Munter Hitch The Munter Hitch can be used to belay or rappel if you lose your belay device. Seek out instruction on belaying and rappelling with the Munter hitch before attempting it by yourself. Hold the rope in both hands, and form a loop by crossing the rope over itself. Then form a second loop in the same way. Now fold the two loops toward each other like you’re closing a book and clip a locking carabiner through both loops. Video: How to Tie a Munter Hitch Friction Hitches for Climbing Friction hitches let you temporarily attach a cord to a rope. They grip the rope when weighted, and slide freely when you remove the load. If you’re looking for a super strong bite into the rope, use a thinner cord. Also, the more times you wrap the cord around the rope, the tighter the grip. But more wraps or a thinner cord also make the hitch more difficult to move when un-weighted. The examples below are technically all hitches, but most climbers call them knots, so that's what we've done here. Prusik Knot (Prusik Hitch) Prusik Knot (Prusik Hitch) The Prusik Knot (technically it's a hitch) is the most common friction hitch. It’s great for ascending, and it’s a staple for crevasse rescue systems because it will grip the rope from either direction of pull. The Prusik is essentially multiple girth hitches. Place your loop behind the rope. Now feed the side with the connecting knot through the other side. Then wrap it around the rope loosely, and feed it through again. Do this at least three times. Make sure that the knot is slightly to the side, out of the way. Pull the hitch tight, and make sure it grips the rope. Dress it by making sure all the loops are parallel and the joining knot is offset so it’s not in the bend of the loop. Video: How to Tie a Prusik Knot Autoblock Knot Autoblock Knot The Autoblock is a quick, easy-to-tie friction hitch that can grip in either direction. It’s most commonly used to back up rappels. Place your loop behind the two ropes so that you have a large loop on one side and a small loop on the other. The joining knot should be on the small loop, close to the ropes, and slightly offset so it’s not in the bend of the loop. Wrap the large loop around the ropes as many times as you need until you’re left with two small loops. Then clip both loops into a carabiner. Dress the hitch by making sure the loops run parallel and it grips the rope. Make sure that the joining knot is offset so it’s not in the bend of the loop. Video: How to Tie an Autoblock Knot Klemheist Knot Klemheist Knot The Klemheist is a simple friction hitch that is unique in that it can be tied both with cord and nylon webbing. It’s designed to grip the rope only for a downward pull so pay attention to how you tie it. Place your cord behind the rope, and keep your joining knot offset so it’s not in the bend of the loop. Wrap the end of the loop around the rope at least three times, moving up with each wrap. Once you have enough wraps, pass the lower end of the loop through the upper loop, and pull it back down. Dress the hitch by making sure the strands are snug and they run parallel. Make sure that the joining knot is offset so it’s not in the bend of the loop. Video: How to Tie a Klemheist Knot Safety is your responsibility. No article or video can replace proper instruction and experience. Make sure you practice proper techniques and safety guidelines before you climb. Contributing REI experts: Arizona region Outdoor School Senior Instructor Jay Parks has AMGA SPI (American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor) certification, along with more than a decade of climbing experience in some of the world’s most inspiring places.
How to Belay Typically, every roped climber clinging to a rock face or gym wall has a partner performing a critical role on the ground. The belayer skillfully handles the rope and can be relied upon to catch a fall every time the need arises. Belaying is a foundational skill that climbing classes teach early on and instruction from a qualified teacher is essential. This article covers the basics of top-rope belaying, but is not meant to replace hands-on learning. (For an overview of lead belaying, read, How to Belay a Lead Climber.) REI Outdoor School offers classes that teach all types of belay, along with a wide range of additional climbing fundamentals. Find a Climbing Class at REI Outdoor School The key steps in learning how to top-rope belay include: Gearing up Set-up Communication Technique Video: How to Belay Gearing Up to Belay When you take a belay class, typically a rope, harness, helmet (if climbing outdoors), locking carabiner, belay device and rock shoes are either provided or available for rent. Check with your climbing instructor to see if you need to bring any additional gear. For an overview of basic climbing gear, see Getting Started Rock Climbing. Types of belay devices: Your belay device is used to manage rope slack/tension, catch a fall and lower your climbing partner. The two main belay device types are tubular and brake assist. This article covers belay with a tubular device. Belay techniques vary for many reasons. If you choose a different type of device than the one you were originally taught to use, then you must learn and practice techniques with that new device. Though basic top-rope belay is similar on many devices, a few details differ. And belaying a lead climber can be quite different, especially on a brake-assist device. When the time comes to buy your own belay device, check out our article, How to Choose Belay Devices. Setting Up the Belay figure 8 knot and setting up belay devices While the climber ties in to the harness using a figure 8 knot, you need to do several steps: Close the system by tying a stopper knot in the end of the rope. This ensures your end of the rope will never pass completely through the belay device, dropping the climber. When the climber is much heavier than you, also consider tying in to a ground anchor. Ground anchors are worth considering, too, whenever you’re forced to belay in a place that less than ideal: where you have an obstruction between you and the wall, for example. Set up the belay device by sliding a bight of rope through the tube closest to your dominant hand. Though many belay devices are symmetrical, some have a grooved inner surface on one side of each tube: This provides additional friction if needed to belay a heavier climber or to belay with a rope that's thinner or slicker than normal. The climber-rope side of the bight, which goes up to the anchor and back down to the climber, should always be on the top side of your belay device. Attach a locking carabiner, which must pass through the bight and belay-device cable, as well as your harness belay loop. To avoid stressing the cable on your belay device, make sure the rope bight doesn’t cross over the cable. Lock the carabiner. Performing the Safety Check Before climbing, the climber and belayer always double-check each other’s setup: Knots: Is the climber’s figure 8 tied correctly and did the belayer close the system correctly with a stopper knot? Buckles: Are both harnesses snug with buckles securely fastened? Whether it’s inherent in the buckle design or (on older harnesses) the climber must perform the task, straps must double back through buckles to secure them. Belay Device: Is it properly threaded? Does the carabiner pass through the rope, belay-device cable and harness belay loop? Is the carabiner locked? Command Check: Because terms can vary, run through your communication to review terminology and to be sure you agree on every term you will use. Belay Communication Be loud with these, because miscommunication can be as consequential as any other type of climbing-system failure. Review commands initially to be sure you and your partner are on the same page. Here are the common commands: Climber: “On belay?” (Are you ready to belay me?) Belayer: “Belay on.” (Slack is gone and I’m ready.) Climber: “Climbing.” (I’m going to climb now.) Belayer: “Climb on.” (I’m ready for you to climb.) Climber: “Slack!” (Pay out a little rope.) Belayer: (Pay out rope and pause to see if climber asks again.) Climber: “Up rope.” (Pull in rope slack.) Belayer: (Pull in slack and pause to see if climber asks again.) Climber: “Tension.” (I want to rest by hanging on the rope now.) Belayer: (Remove all slack and hold tight.) “Gotcha.” Climber: “Ready to lower.” (I’m done climbing.) Belayer: (Reposition both hands to brake.) “Lowering.” Climber: “Off belay.” (I’m standing securely on the ground.) Belayer: “Belay off.” (I’ve stopped belaying you.) The “take” command: Many climbers use this rather than “tension” when they want the belayer to remove slack and take the weight of the climber on the rope. The argument for using “tension” instead is that “take” can be confused with “slack,” and confusing those commands would be a very bad thing. Naming names: Start every command with your partner’s name. On a crowded crag or in a busy gym, voices are hard to distinguish. One sure way that your partner will know that the command came from you is to add your partner’s name to it. Other Important Commands: If you hear these shouted by a climber, with or without a name, ready yourself. "Rock!" This is for anything, natural or manufactured, that gets loose. When you hear this, look down (not up) so your helmet can protect you. "Watch Me!" This means a climber thinks a fall is likely. "Falling!" Means exactly what you think it means. Belay Technique The following are universal belay principles: Always keep your brake hand(s) on the rope. ALWAYS. Only slide a hand when the rope is firmly held in the braking position. Always orient brake hands in their strongest natural position. Always maintain attention on your climber, and be watchful for any hazards in your surroundings. Proper Belay Stance Athletically, that means your non-dominant foot is forward, your knees are bent and your whole body is relaxed yet ready. Geographically, that means you’re not too far from the wall. To avoid impact from the climber or a rock, you’re also one step away from being directly under the climber’s route. Organizationally, that means that any rope on the ground is neatly stacked so that it won’t get tangled up as you’re belaying. Proper Hand Position Brake hand: Place your dominant hand about six inches below the belay device and firmly grip the rope. Thumb and forefinger are up, not down. (Note: If you put your brake hand too close to the device, you risk getting severely pinched during a forceful fall, which in turn, puts you at risk of dropping the rope.) Guide hand: Place your opposite hand on the climber’s side of the rope. Grab it slightly above your head at a height that’s comfortable to reach. PBUS (Pull, Brake, Under, Slide) Technique When you’re belaying a top-rope climber, most of your time is spent taking in slack as the person climbs. The PBUS method is a simple, effective way to do this: Pull: Pull your guide hand downward while also lifting the firmly gripped brake rope out and up. This takes in slack as your partner climbs. Brake: When the guide hand nears the belay device, flip the brake rope back down to lock the rope in the device. Under: Move the guide hand to the brake rope, placing it underneath the brake hand. Grip the rope firmly to create a new temporary brake hand. Slide: Loosen the grip, but don’t unwrap the fingers of your original brake hand. Slide it up to its original position, six inches below the belay device, and grip the rope firmly. Repeat: Move your guide hand back to its original position and you’re ready to go again. Generally, short quick PBUS sequences work best. Watch and listen to your climber closely and continuously. When the climber pauses, you pause. Always pause in the brake position. You must also be prepared to catch a fall, hold tension in the rope and lower your climber. Catching a Fall Whether it’s because you hear the climber yell “Falling!” and/or you spot the fall because you never take your eyes off your climber, you must react quickly. That’s why your athletic belay stance is so important. Pull your brake hand down as you tighten your grip. Use your body, harness, rope and belay device to absorb the force of the fall. Your body is acting as a counterweight to the climber’s body. If you’ve been removing slack consistently during the climb, both the distance the climber falls and the resulting force you are catching will be relatively modest. Note that climbing ropes are designed to stretch a little, which helps absorb the force of the fall and, in turn, lessens the force on the climber's body during the fall. Holding a Climber Who Pauses Whenever a climber wants to pause for any reason—to rest, consider a move or is at the top of the climb, for example—the command is "Tension!" Remove any slack in the rope Pull your brake hand down Lean back to maintain rope tension Yell “Gotcha!” Lowering a Climber When the climber has completed the route, asked for tension and you’ve got them, the climber will lean back into a sitting position and yell, “Lower me!” Bring your guide hand under your brake hand Keep both hands on the rope Yell “Lowering!” Let the rope slowly feed through the belay device, lowering the climber Maintain a steady pace, adjusting speed if the climber requests it Pause to let the climber see and negotiate obstacles like a rock outcrop, a roof or an overhang Slow down near the ground to allow the climber to touch down with good footing When the climber is standing on the ground, safely balanced on two feet, the climber yells “Off belay!” You respond by paying out plenty of slack and yelling “Belay off!” Remember: Climbing safety is your responsibility. No internet article or video can replace proper instruction and experience—this article is intended solely as supplemental information. Be sure you’re practiced in proper techniques and safety requirements before you climb. Contributing REI experts: Outdoor School Instructors Matt Vodjanksy (Colorado Front Range), Rick Dotson and Naz Ahmed (both in the Mid-Atlantic region) all have AMGA SPI (American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor) certification, along with decades of climbing experience in some of the world’s most inspiring places. https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/belay.html
Communication for Climbing The following are standard commands between climber and belayer, from the beginning to the end of a pitch. This example involves a female belayer and a male climber. Climber: That's me! The belayer above is taking in all the slack rope before putting it into her belay device. The climber calls this when he is tugged by the rope from above, indicating that there is no more rope to take in. Belayer: Belay on! The belayer is anchored in and has the rope set up through her belay device. She calls this command to let the climber know she's ready to belay. Climber: Slack! The climber needs extra rope in order to make the first move or to finish taking apart his belay anchor. Climber: Up rope! The climber no longer needs the slack in the rope. Asks belayer to take it in. (This can be used at any point in the climb to signal to the belayer to take up slack.) Climber: Climbing! The climber signals that he is ready to start climbing. Belayer: Climb on! or Climb! The belayer again signals she is ready for the climber. Climber: Watch me! The climber is making a move in which he might fall. Asking the belayer to be ready to catch him. Climber: Tension! Same as above. Climber: Falling! The climber is falling and putting sudden stress on the rope. Belayer should have the rope locked off and be braced for any shock. Belayer: Halfway! The belayer lets the climber know that he has half the rope's length left to use. Belayer: Feet-three-oh! four-oh, etc. (30 or 40 feet of rope left.) The belayer lets climber know how many feet of rope are left for him to use. Climber: Off belay! The climber is tied in to the rock with a personal anchor and no longer needs the belayer. Belayer: Belay off! The belayer has taken the rope out of the belay device and is no longer watching the climber. Other situations: Climber (rappeller): On rappel! Lets people below know to get out of the way of loose rock and to be ready to grab the end of the rope if necessary to stop the rappeller. Rope! Anyone at the top of a cliff calls this loudly after looking for a clear space below to throw the rope for a rappel or to send the top rope back down. Rock! Anyone calls this loudly and repeatedly when rock is falling until everyone is out of the way. Take! Used in climbing gyms by the climber at the top of a route, it asks the belayer to take the climber's weight on the rope and lower him down. Take is not used in traditional climbing since the climber is not lowered, but rather expected to anchor in before being taken off the belay. At times you'll even be out of hearing range of your climbing partner. Wind, rushing streams and even other climbers in the area can make verbal communication difficult or sometimes impossible. Use names to avoid confusion when more than one team is within earshot. For example, "John, on belay!" or "Anne, up rope!" Agree on rope signals when voices can't be heard. Some climbing partners have a system of tugs on the rope to signal their intentions. These are sometimes hard to feel on long routes and aren't always totally reliable. Use 2-way radios for clear communication on long routes or very windy conditions when you can't hear each other. They can be particularly useful in emergency situations when a lot of information needs to be conveyed back and forth. Most importantly, decide on a system with your climbing partner before you leave the ground! https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/communication-climbing.html
Climbing Techniques and Moves traditional climber leading route using proper technique ascending Great climbers don’t power their way up a wall, they “technique” their way to the top using a set of moves designed to help them attack specific problems. If you want to become a better climber, hone your technique and movement. And the best way to do that is by climbing every chance you get. Improving technique involves learning principles of movement and balance. Then you can concentrate on nailing the nuances of individual moves. Climbing Techniques It’s hard to overstate the importance of good technique. When you focus on technique, moves start to click into place and you find yourself floating up routes that used to be too difficult. This section covers some key concepts: Ways to use your feet Ways to maintain balance Ways to be more efficient Climbing Techniques: Using Your Feet foot technique climbing Feet are the foundation of climbing. Lots of beginners try to pull themselves up the wall and quickly tire out. Think about climbing a ladder—you don’t pull yourself up, you step up, and use your arms and hands for balance. It’s the same in climbing. Basic techniques for using your feet are edging and smearing: Edging is exactly what it sounds like: You step on a hold with the rubber on the edge of your shoe. You can use the inside edge, where your big toe offers stability on smaller holds, or you can use the outside edge. Your choice depends on the direction you need to move in order to get on or off the hold. Smearing happens when you don’t have an actual foothold, so you rely on your shoe’s rubber for friction against the rock. Smearing is useful in slab climbing, when you’re on low-angle rock without many defined footholds. When you smear, look for small depressions or protrusions that will give a little extra friction. You can also flatten out the angle for slightly better purchase. Keep the following footwork tactics in mind when climbing: Try to keep your feet directly below you. Keep an eye out for footholds in good positions, so you can maintain better balance. Look for foot placements even more than for handholds. Once you set your foot, keep it still. You’ll have a better chance of staying on the hold as you make your next move. Keep your heel low so you have plenty of contact with the wall. With a high heel less rubber is on the rock, reducing friction and increasing the odds that you’ll lever your foot off the wall when you make your next move. Climbing Techniques: Maintaining Balance climber using good technique climbing When you’re lucky enough to have a line of jugs leading straight up the wall, climbing is pretty intuitive. When you’re on a route where you have to move and pull in different directions, though, you have to use your body to maintain balance. When you have to use a hold that’s out to the side, you can’t pull straight down. So you need to find a way to counter the force of that side pull, so you don’t lose balance and barn-door off the wall. Balancing tactics: Press your foot in the opposite direction of the pull to create counter pressure. Pull in the opposite direction with your other hand or a hooked foot. Lean over hard and use your body weight as a counter balance. Climbing Techniques: Climbing Efficiently climber demonstrating using straight arms while climbing Learn how to use less energy and how to give your muscles a break as you climb: Straight arms are happy arms. Straightening your arm allows your skeleton to take most of the weight, not your muscles. Even a slight bend in your elbow means your muscles are working to hold it there. Focus on your hips. Beginners often keep hips squared to the wall, which can feel very stable, but it pushes your weight away from the wall and stresses your muscles. Try to keep one hip pushed up against the wall. That helps keep your weight over your feet and lets you lean back with straight arms. Having a hip close to the wall brings your shoulder closer. Your weight is over your feet, decreasing your chances of peeling off. A close shoulder also changes the angle of pull on handholds, making them easier to grip. Good climbers climb with their eyes. Keep your eyes on the wall to look for holds that let you take a quick rest. Don’t just focus on the chalk marks. When you find a good rest, use it. Allow your pulse to slow down and shake out your arms so they don’t get pumped later. Climbing Moves Having a good arsenal of climbing moves helps you solve problems and tackle more challenging routes. Each of these moves employs principles covered in the technique section, above. Back Step A back step is the opposite of a normal step. Instead of stepping on a hold with your big toe and your hips squared to the wall, you turn your hip to the side and step with the outside edge (little-toe side) of your shoe. Back stepping helps get your hip close to wall, making it easier to straighten your arms and take a rest. It can also provide enough extension to reach an elusive hold. Back steps are especially useful for saving energy on steep and overhanging routes. Drop Knee A drop knee is a more extreme back step. It works best when you have a foothold near hip level. Step onto it with the tip of your toe; then roll your knee in until the outside of your shoe rests on the hold and your knee actually points down. Just like a back step, a drop knee gets your hip close to the wall. It’s great for a rest, but it’s especially great when you need extra reach on a steep or overhanging wall. Stemming Stemming is pushing against two opposing surfaces. This could be in a chimney, in a corner, or on an otherwise flat wall that has a big, protruding feature. You can stem using any combination of hands and feet, but the key is to use counter pressure to stay in balance. Stemming relies on your big leg muscles, so it’s an extremely efficient way to climb, and can give you some great rests. Flagging Flagging is counter balancing by using a limb to shift your weight. The goal is to keep from swinging away from the rock. Flagging is advantageous any time you’re using holds that are all on the same side of your body. Because that also stacks all your weight to one side, you simply swing that leg out to the other side of your body to keep yourself in balance. Lay-backing Lay-backing is when you pull and lean off one side of a flake or a crack and push your feet against the other side. When you have good footholds, laybacks are very efficient because your arms are straight and your feet do the hard work. When lack of good footholds requires you to smear, keep your heels low to maximize the amount of rubber against the rock. You can use a lay-back any time you’re in a crack and jamming isn’t an option, or you’ve got an opposing wall to push off against, like in a dihedral crack. Mantle A mantle is when you push down on a hold and bring feet up to meet hands. A classic example of mantling is at the top of a climb when you need to pull yourself onto the ledge. To mantle, push down on a hold to get your weight above it, then move your foot up to take the place of your hand. Mantles are necessary when you top out, but are also useful mid-climb when you have a big handhold and you need to get your feet high. Undercling Like the name implies, an undercling is when you use the underside of a hold. Using underclings may feel counter-intuitive at first, because instead of pulling down on the hold, you’re pulling up. One key to a good undercling is to find good, high footholds so you can maintain body tension by pushing with your feet as you pull on the hold. Keeping your feet high puts the hold around waist level and lets you keep your arms straighter. When done right, a good undercling gets you in a solid position to reach up for some extra elevation. Side Pull A side pull is any hold that’s oriented for a sideways pull. The key to a well-executed side pull is to balance out that sideways pull by shifting your body weight or by applying a counter force. Like underclings, side pulls can feel awkward because you have to adapt the direction of your pull to the orientation of the hold. But once that feeling clicks, suddenly you can use holds all around you, not just those straight above. Gaston A gaston is the inverse of side pull. In a side pull, the hold is oriented so that you pull in, toward yourself. A gaston is also oriented for a sideways force, but instead of a pull in, it requires a push out. The position is kind of like if you were trying to open an elevator door; your elbow is bent and pointing out to the side with your fingers pointing in toward you. Gastons may feel unstable because all the force comes from your shoulder. But adding this move to your repertoire really opens up the wall. Palming Palming is the hand version of smearing: You push against the rock with an open palm. Palming can help you maintain balance while you reposition your feet. It comes in handy if no good handholds are available. Palming is also useful when stemming because it allows you to apply counter pressure to a blank face. And on slab climbs, fingers-down palming is especially helpful. Safety is your responsibility. No article or video can replace proper instruction and experience. Make sure you practice proper techniques and safety guidelines before you climb. Contributing REI experts: Outdoor School Senior Instructor Jay Parks (Arizona region has AMGA SPI (American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor) certification, along with more than a decade of climbing experience in some of the world’s most inspiring places. https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/climbing-techniques.html
Climbing Holds: How to Use Them climbers hand crimping rock hold Search for climbing holds online and you find page after page of strange and colorful shapes for climbing gyms. On an outdoor crag your search is for their real-world inspirations, which subtly blend into the rock face before you. Learning the names of holds and how to spot each one is fundamental to your progress as a climber. This article provides that overview and, more importantly, explains how to use each hold. Two techniques help you get the most out of any hold: Squeeze only as hard as you need to stay on a hold. Squeezing as hard as you can exhausts forearms prematurely and you’ll feel “pumped” because so much blood flow is directed to arms when they’re tensed. Focus on the direction you want to pull. To get the strongest and easiest grip, pull perpendicular to the hold. Line your weight up with that direction of pull and you’ll be less likely to come off the rock. Types of Climbing Holds Jug/Bucket climbing jug hold Jugs are big, open holds that you can get your whole hand around. Jugs are most people’s favorite because they’re so easy to grip and they provide an excellent rest. Edge/Ledge climbing ledge or edge hold Edges are the most common holds you find. They can be tiny dime edges (barely wide enough for the toe of your shoe), long cuts in the wall (room for both hands) or huge ledges (big enough to boost your whole body onto at the top of a climb). Edges can face any direction on the wall, so make sure you nail the direction of pull. Crimp climbing crimp hold A crimp is a very small edge that’s only big enough for the pads of your fingers. By getting your body weight closer to the wall, you can get a better angle on this tiny hold and you’ll have a better chance of staying connected to it. You can hold a crimp in two ways: Full crimp or closed crimp: You have sharp angles in your knuckles and your thumb is tucked over your fingers for extra power. This position is stressful on finger tendons, so be careful. Open grip: Your fingertips are on the edge and the rest of your hand is draped onto the wall. This grip places less strain on your tendons, so it should be your go-to grip unless you need the power of a full crimp. Pinch climbing pinch hold A pinch is exactly what it sounds like—any piece of rock that you can pinch with your thumb on one side and your fingers on the other. Because your thumb adds so much gripping power, use it any time you can get it on a hold. Sloper climbing sloper hold Slopers are big bulges with no positive angle for your hands to grip. They can be tricky, but good technique will have you climbing slopey routes in no time: Body position is key: Keep your weight directly opposed to the direction of pull, strive for a low center of gravity and maintain body tension to stay balanced as you make your move. Feel for features that offer a little extra grip: Dimples or small bulges are helpful. Once you find your position, get your whole hand in contact to maximize friction, and keep it still as you move through to the next hold. Pocket climbing pocket hold Pockets are holes in the rock. They can be so small that you can barely fit one finger, or wide enough to fit your whole hand. Your middle finger is strongest; so make sure you use it if you only have room for one or two fingers. A pocket can take pretty much any direction of pull, so you can use whatever technique you want. Just be careful not to over-strain the tendons in your fingers. Undercling climbing undercling hold Like the name implies, an undercling is any hold you grip from the bottom so you can pull up. One key to a good undercling is to find good, high footholds so you can maintain body tension as you reach for the next hold. Flake climbing flake hold A flake is a piece of rock that has detached from the wall, leaving a crack between it and the bigger rock. You can jam some flakes just like a crack, but it’s often easier to just to wrap your hands around it and lay back off the edge. Horn climbing horn hold Horns are protrusions of rock that you can get your hand behind. They’re great holds because they’re usually very easy to grip. Sometimes you can even throw a sling around them to use as protection. Safety is your responsibility. No article or video can replace proper instruction and experience. Make sure you practice proper techniques and safety guidelines before you climb. Contributing REI experts: Outdoor School Senior Instructor Jay Parks (Arizona region has AMGA SPI (American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor) certification, along with more than a decade of climbing experience in some of the world’s most inspiring places. https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/climbing-holds.html
How to Rappel While all climbers aspire to reach the top of a pitch, getting back down is every bit as important. Lowering on belay is what most of us do when we start climbing. Rappelling is another essential skill, though, for you to become a well-rounded climber. Lowering requires a belay partner, while in rappelling the climber self lowers. Rappelling comes in handy in a number of scenarios, including: You have no approach trail to access the base of your climb (like on a sea cliff). The wall has a lot of loose rocks and you want to clean the route before you climb. You have an injured climber and a rescue from the top of the climb is warranted. You want to minimize wear and tear on an anchor system (like one that has rappel rings) after you’ve cleaned the anchor and need to get down. Any situation when climbing down, lowering and walking off are all not possible or not preferable. This article provides rappel steps for a common scenario: a sport-climbing area with two bolts at the top of the route. A few things to keep in mind: We assume you know how to tie knots, bends and hitches, and that you are proficient at lead climbing and lead belaying. Because rappels are when a large percentage of climbing accidents happen, taking the time to learn how to do them correctly is essential. Until you master the process under the close watch of an expert, don’t rappel on your own. The best way to learn all these skills is to find an experienced climber to mentor you, or to sign up for classes taught by a certified climbing instructors. Find a Climbing Class at REI Outdoor School Rappelling steps in this article: Checking rappel gear Preparing at the top of the route Setting up the rappel Rappelling down Video: How to Rappel Checking Rappel Gear Your essential climbing gear is also your rappel gear, with a few additions. One piece of added gear needed here and for many rappels is a personal anchor system (PAS), attached to your harness by a girth hitch tied through both harness tie-in points. (If you use an alternative type of anchor tether to a PAS, some steps here will change slightly.) You also need a 24- to 36-inch length of 5mm or 6mm cord, tied into a loop with a double fisherman’s knot. This is for the Autoblock hitch that backs up your rappel device. Note that you’ll need to inspect and replace this periodically because rappels generate friction that degrades the strength of the cord over time. Also double-check the manufacturers recommendations for your belay device. Some are more suitable for rappelling than others. Most tubular-style belay devices are approved for rappel. (This article describes rappel with a tubular belay device.) Most mechanical belay devices are more suitable for belay than rappel. The classic figure-8 belay device is approved for rappel, and many climbers believe it’s more suited to that than belay. Always read the manufacturer’s directions to find out if your current belay device is approved for rappel. One non-essential item many climbers also take is rappel gloves, especially if they will be doing multiple rappels. For a basic climbing equipment list, read our Sport-Climbing Checklist. For info on choosing a belay device, read our article, How to Choose a Belay Device. Preparing at the Top of the Route These steps will vary with each rappel scenario. In this case, you will have climbed to the top of the route to clean a top-rope anchor. Clip a quickdraw to one bolt, or another acceptable point, and clip the rope into that draw. Tell your belayer to take in the slack (the belay will back up your PAS). Use a locking carabiner to clip a loop of the PAS to the same bolt as the draw. Clip another PAS loop to the other bolt, making sure that you select a loop that will keep slack out of the system as you work. Clean and rack the top anchor. Ask for slack and pull up about 30 feet of rope Tie off the slack with a clove hitch or overhand on a bight and clip it into your belay loop. This prevents a mishandled rope from plummeting to the ground, stranding you. Untie the figure 8 that attaches the rope to your harness and thread the rope through the bottom link on both chains. Close the system by tying a stopper knot in the end of the rope; this, combined with the stopper knot you should already have tied on the ground end of the rope, ensures you can’t rappel off the rope ends. Feed the rope until you come to the clove hitch or overhand on a bight that's clipped to your belay loop; untie it and keep feeding the rope until the middle mark on the rope is at the top point of your rappel. Have your belayer confirm that both rope ends are touching the ground. Setting Up the Rappel Your PAS should still be firmly attached to both bolts. Now it can be set up as an extension of your rappel device. Set up an extension for your rappel device: An extension to your rappel device keeps it away from loose clothes, makes it easier to back up and centers it so it’s easier for you to control the brake strands. Clip a locking carabiner through two of the loops on your PAS and the cable of your rappel device. Grab both strands of the rope hanging near the rappel device, pinch them into a bight and push them through both sides of the rappel device. Reclip your locker carabiner into both loops of rope and the cable on the rappel device. Lock the carabiner. Back up your rappel device: Always back up your rappel with a friction hitch that helps hold the brake strands if something happens and you lose your grip. Hitch options include the Prusik and the Autoblock, described here: Take your pre-tied 24- 36-inch loop of cord and wrap its strands several times around the strands of your climbing rope. Clip a locking carabiner through (both) remaining ends of the loop and the belay loop of your harness. Check that the wrapped strands on the hitch are neat and not crossed. Check that the hitch isn’t so long that it can jam in your rappel device. Slide the hitch as high as possible, then, with your brake hand firmly on the rope, gently weight the rope to see if the hitch holds you; if not, wrap the loop an extra time and relock the carabiner. Rappelling Down Double-check all knots, hitches, locking carabiners and make certain everything is secure; double-check that both rope ends have a knot and that both knots are on the ground. Shout “on rappel” to your belaying partner below. Adjust your Autoblock so that the brake hand can tend to it. Keeping your brake hand on the rope—where it must always remain—take in slack and weight the rope. Unclip your PAS from the anchor and clip the end of it to your belay loop; this creates redundancy in your rappel extension. To begin lowering, use your guide hand to feed rope through the rappel device. Try to keep your legs perpendicular to the wall and your torso leaning slightly in as your feet walk you backwards down the wall. Turn your head to watch for obstructions. Maintain a steady, controlled pace. When you reach the ground, remove the Autoblock, pull the ropes out of your device and tell your partner that you’re “off rappel.” To retrieve your rope, you untie the end knots and pull one of the strands until it’s freed and falls from the rappel rings. Remember: Safety is your responsibility. No article or video can replace proper instruction and experience—this article is intended solely as supplemental information. Be sure you practice proper techniques and follow safety requirements before you climb. Contributing REI experts: Outdoor School Instructor Jesse Janicula (Calif. Bay Area), who has an AMGA SPI (American Mountain Guides Association Single Pitch Instructor) certification, along with decades of climbing experience. https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/how-to-rappel.html